Thanks for your reply Janicholson and clarification on solenoid type starters never having been used on this tractor. IH/Case said the same thing. It should be obvious by now that if I just wanted to get this tractor running I would have bought a new part by now. I had found the part you noted from Ebay (which BTW IH/Case doesn’t even list). But I want to understand how the starter works too, which helps one figure out why it doesn’t work. If I was going to buy a new part I’d have to take off the old one anyway so I removed the nose casting of the starter and removed the fixing bolt on the end of the large flat spring nearest the pinion gear. Hint: Don’t allow the (other) brush end casting to come off to avoid having to figure out how to hold 4 brushes out while you put the armature in (use wires for that). See photos.
Once that bolt is removed the “tube “ type shaft containing the spiral grooves, the pinion gear, the light spring, and the thin metal cap that retains the spring are free to rotate around the (inner) armature shaft which is continuous from the bushing at the brush end to the bushing at the nose end of the starter. That shows that the torque from the armature to the pinion gear is indeed transmitted only through the large flat spring. That’s why other posters have said that diesels break these springs more often than gas engines—the starter has to transmit more torque. When the starter is engaged, the spin-up of the armature shaft working against the inertia of the pinion gear drives the gear up the spiral until it engages the flywheel teeth. When the engine starts it spins the pinion back down the tube shaft. When it starts. When it doesn’t then something needs to move that pinion back down the spiral for another try. The large torque spring may have some windup tension in it that might help retract the pinion, but in my case that spring is in good condition and the pinion isn’t disengaging. But I do realize that rough flywheel and pinion gears may be preventing retract too.
The “tube” shaft should have, but would not, slide off the end of the armature shaft. Wear over time on mine had created a tiny ridge at the end of the larger diameter portion of the shaft near its left end. I filed that ridge off and the tube shaft assembly slid off.
Before I give up and buy the part you mentioned I’m going to do three things as an experiment. 1) Replace the small spring with one that is a little, but not a lot stronger than the current one. 2) Clean and polish the armature shaft and inside of the tube shaft. 3) Dress the gear tooth noses.
I had previously not known how to remove the metal end cap retaining the small spring. Once I got the tube assembly off and cleaned up it is clear that the cap is retained by four punch dents deforming the end of the tube shaft. I’ll de-dent those, get the metal cap off, and find another spring.
The pinion gear tooth noses look too beat up to allow easy engagement so I’ll dress those with a Dremel so they are consistent in length and have clean angled noses like new ones.
Thanks again for your help. I do appreciate the responses.
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