I was always told to soak those cork seals in a clean container of oil for an hour or two, BUT you might want to check for a steel shell rubber oil seal. I know that the cork ones come in the kit, but automotive engines haven"t used them for years, and there may be something better available. I rebuild Wisconsin 2 cyl engines and the gasket kits always have a cork seal, but upon doing a late model, I found a newer oil seal, and found it fit all 2 cyl engines. I am now buying that modern seal from a bearing and seal supply house and having much success using it Older Wisconsins always have an oil streak on them from where the soft cork seak leaked. A new steel shell-rubber seal doesn"t leak. I always install a speedi-sleave if the shaft has a groove worn it it from abrasion of dirty leaking oil and dust. It lets the seal run on a new smooth surface, and is worth the money, and no recalls! Finally, at tech school, (in the 60s) when installing pistons, we put the rings on, dipped them in a clean coffee can of engine oil, let them drip off, then put on the ring compresser, and installed the piston. We put engine assembly LUBRI-PLATE,(in the tube, still available from NAPA)on the bearing shells and the crankshaft, before bolting and torqueing the rods
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Today's Featured Article - New Life for an Old Allis - by Tyler Woods. My friend Jon, has an old '39 Allis Chalmers B. He thought it a marginal tractor that had long since served its time. She smoked terribly and never had much power but he couldn't afford another so he was limping along with what he had. Jon's Allis has a small front loader and though it doesn't carry much, it serves his needs. It was the hard starting and low power that made him think it was time to replace the old girl. Jon called me to help him discover why his tractor wouldn't start
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