That Cambridge switch will do. They also have a model with a rubber boot so water can't get into the workings.
Now, the connection path for me. I prefer to run a hot lead directly from the battery + to the plus coil leg of the solenoid. Then, wire the other leg of the solenoid to the switch, and from the switch to a good ground. This will work with any 4 pole solenoid which is what's used on most garden tractors. If it has only three poles, then the bracket of the solenoid is grounded and will use the switch to interrupt the + from the batt.
I find it a bit safer to have the high current + wire going directly to the solenoid. You can use a 15A inline fuse if you want, but I prefer to switch the ground leg rather than the plus leg. Either will work with a 4 pole solenoid.
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Today's Featured Article - Harvestin Hay: The Early Years (Part 2) - by Pat Browning. The summer of 1950 was the start of a new era in farming for our family. I was thirteen, and Kathy (my oldest sister) was seven. At this age, I believed tractor farming was the only way, hot stuff -- and given a chance I probably would have used the tractor, Dad's first, a 1936 Model "A" John Deere, to go bring in the cows! And I think Dad was ready for some automation too. And so it was that we acquired a good, used J. I. Case, wire tie hay baler. In addition to a person to drive th
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