Posted by MarkB_MI on May 18, 2022 at 03:24:19 from (174.211.1.182):
In Reply to: Water Heater posted by john in la on May 17, 2022 at 18:50:07:
As for your original question, water heater parts are mostly universal. But you should try to find replacements that are as close as possible to what you have.
Any hardware store will have a T&P valve that will work. Actually, the one you show in your post is from an RV parts supplier, that's how universal they are. There is a similar valve for boilers that is pressure only, but you won't find it in most hardware stores.
The heating elements come in a variety of wattages; the actual size of your elements should be marked on the heater. If it's on a 30 amp breaker it can take up to 6500 watts, 25 amps can handle 5500 watts and a 20 amp breaker can only use a 4500 watt element. Often the upper element will be larger than the lower one, since it is used less. Elements come in different lengths depending on the diameter of the heater tank. A skinny heater may need an element that's doubled up to fit in the tank.
When an element fails, it's almost always the lower element because it's the one that is used the most. The symptom of a failed lower element is running out of hot water sooner than expected. When the upper element fails, you won't have any hot water at all.
As I said in my earlier post, I think replacing the T&P valve will fix your problem. You say the water seems too hot, but that may be caused, surprisingly, by the leaky valve. All thermostats have a certain amount of hysteresis, meaning they turn off at a higher temperature than they turn on. The difference may be about 10°F. The leaky valve is preventing the thermostat from turning off, so the water is being heated to almost, but not quite, the shutoff temperature.
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