Just wanted to follow up on this since our problem appears to be solved. Went out, cleaned everything up, tightened up knotter brake. Noticed that the bolt which mounts that brake-side of the knotter stack to the frame had completely broken off, so it was being held at only one point instead so there was a lot of movement when they needles swung. Drilled the old stud out and re-bolted. Checked and adjusted timing of needle clutch according to manual (lined up the marks when the main crank was vertical). - in retrospect when we had repaired the chain yesterday, we had not been careful in lining it up accurately.
Started to bale, first knot tied perfectly and BOOM. Shear pin. Noticed the needles were not in the home positionfigured the brake was allowing them to drift. Tighten brake, replace shear pin, and back at it. BOOM. Shear pin. Replaced the shear pin and set out again, this time I watched the needle arms more closely rather than the knotters. I had suspected they were drifting but they were not making it home. They were stopping about an inch short. So went back to the clutch where we had timed according to the manual, thought our way through it and decided to advance the drive sprocket by one link (or retardthis was a 5 minute discussion as to whether we were advancing or retardinghahaha). We were rolling.
Baled roughly 500 without a missed knot or broken shear pin. 273 is back in running orde.r.
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Today's Featured Article - New Life for an Old Allis - by Tyler Woods. My friend Jon, has an old '39 Allis Chalmers B. He thought it a marginal tractor that had long since served its time. She smoked terribly and never had much power but he couldn't afford another so he was limping along with what he had. Jon's Allis has a small front loader and though it doesn't carry much, it serves his needs. It was the hard starting and low power that made him think it was time to replace the old girl. Jon called me to help him discover why his tractor wouldn't start
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