Easy test of the valves, disconnect and ground the coil wire.
Remove the air cleaner hose, hold your hand tightly over the intake horn of the carb.
Spin the engine through. You should get a strong, steady vacuum on your hand, and it be wet with gas.
No vacuum, there are stuck open valves.
Vacuum and no gas, there is a fuel delivery problem.
Leave the air cleaner disconnected until you get it running, just in case it is clogged.
Double check the ignition system.
Be sure you have 1/4" spark to ground at each plug. The plug end of the wire, not the distributor.
Double check the firing order, and that it is wired to the correct rotation of the rotor.
Check the wires are correct to #1 on compression. Remove the #1 plug, hold your finger over the hole, bring the piston up feeling for compression. Carefully bring the piston to just before TDC. The rotor should point to #1 cap terminal.
The cylinders may be dry. Put a spoon of oil in each cylinder, spin it out with the plugs out. The oil will raise the compression for easier starting.
You can jump it with 12v. Remove the battery from the circuit, and be careful not to leave the ignition on between start attempts.
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Today's Featured Article - New Life for an Old Allis - by Tyler Woods. My friend Jon, has an old '39 Allis Chalmers B. He thought it a marginal tractor that had long since served its time. She smoked terribly and never had much power but he couldn't afford another so he was limping along with what he had. Jon's Allis has a small front loader and though it doesn't carry much, it serves his needs. It was the hard starting and low power that made him think it was time to replace the old girl. Jon called me to help him discover why his tractor wouldn't start
... [Read Article]
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