Okay, first off you need to chill a bit and lose the attitude. You are getting answers you don't want to hear, that happens a lot here. No one is saying you need to spend $50K on a used dozer. No one is saying that for strictly farm use in an Intrastate situation your state may not in fact allow you to do just what you are saying. You came to a place that serves all 50 states, Canada, Europe, Australia and the rest of the world. What is a common sense truck law in Wash State might be absolutely verboten everywhere else. What we are saying is that with crawler tractors a simple fix is almost never possible. On a machine that size you are into some major metal moving to get to the steering clutch. I don't know if you need to drop the tracks on that one to get to the clutch, but that gets us to the expensive part on crawlers- undercarriage. I don't even care about the clutch at this point, first thing you need to do is get the wear specs for the rails and see what shape they are in. Just because they seem tight doesn't mean they aren't over 100% worn out. You drop the track on something that size and you will spend all day or more learning brand new swear words! Then there are the rollers, track adjustment system, track carrier mounts, etc. Then you get to the mechanicals and steering. It's also a very OLD crawler and it's not a Cat. That's not bashing IHC, it's just that some brands have worlds better support than others. You have to consider that. You also have to consider roads in your area you intend to transport it on. Your rig is going to be pretty heavy. Are there bridges/culverts you need to be concerned about or axle weight restrictions in play? (retired NYSP DOT Trooper, I think about stuff like that).
In the end, it's a risk. You can probably part the crawler out and make a mint if nothing else. Were it me, and it has been a couple times with much smaller JD crawlers, I'd talk to people who have done the actual job you think you need to do. And then ask them what else it can be besides just a simple steering clutch. You find if you read the post here that an awful lot of "simple fixes" turn into nightmare jobs where the guy would have been better off hiring it done if he'd know ahead of time.
FWIW- when I bought a JD 1010 in what amounted to a large number of boxes and a carcass, I was told I'd thrown every penny away. I put it all back together and I've done a lot of work with it. It needed tracks long before I got it and moving it involves inching it around like I'm moving nitro in a old western. I will never, ever get the $$$ I have into to it out of it. Not a chance. I still haven't broke even in work vs cost. But I do have the machine, which is down at the moment and needs probably several hundred $ in large hydraulic hoses.
Just think it over real hard. It won't be as easy as you think, 100% guarantee.
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Today's Featured Article - New Life for an Old Allis - by Tyler Woods. My friend Jon, has an old '39 Allis Chalmers B. He thought it a marginal tractor that had long since served its time. She smoked terribly and never had much power but he couldn't afford another so he was limping along with what he had. Jon's Allis has a small front loader and though it doesn't carry much, it serves his needs. It was the hard starting and low power that made him think it was time to replace the old girl. Jon called me to help him discover why his tractor wouldn't start
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