Okay, went back and see I didn't make the original draw down clear at all- that was due to the old getting messed up, so it basically wouldn't shut off. Current was "on" whenever the battery was hooked up. That part I got fixed. The wiring I have is EXACTLY like the diagram except I prefer not to use an "idiot" light and use a momentary push button switch on all my tractors. Had some problems with the idiot lights over the years, so I do it physically and it works for me. However, that switch hasn't been wired in on this one yet. I can trigger the alt to start charging by brushing the #1 wire against the Batt stud on alt.
So I'm down to 2 questions. 1- A solid 12v between the Pos batt post and terminal may not indicate a draw? It can be 12v at almost no amps? 2- Taking the Alt out of the wiring system deletes that draw, so it must be the alt? I have another known good Alt here I can try, just have to change pulleys. Guess that's next. Thanks!
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Today's Featured Article - Harvestin Hay: The Early Years (Part 2) - by Pat Browning. The summer of 1950 was the start of a new era in farming for our family. I was thirteen, and Kathy (my oldest sister) was seven. At this age, I believed tractor farming was the only way, hot stuff -- and given a chance I probably would have used the tractor, Dad's first, a 1936 Model "A" John Deere, to go bring in the cows! And I think Dad was ready for some automation too. And so it was that we acquired a good, used J. I. Case, wire tie hay baler. In addition to a person to drive th
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