Posted by paul on July 06, 2019 at 13:32:47 from (76.77.197.114):
In Reply to: tin roof posted by 714_run on July 06, 2019 at 11:35:49:
I would try to track down and follow the manufacturers instructions.
I’m most familiar and comfortable with in the rib and most of the tin roof I’ve worked with is a 3 or 4 rib type.
But I understand some of the different patterns have new specs of working in the flat.
To be honest on the shed dad built in the early 1960s I’m now going across the bottom and screwing down the bottom edge in the flats. The nails he used are pulling loose and the hole is pretty big to even get a screw to hold well, I put a screw in the nail hole but also putting a shorter screw in the flats to help hold down. So, it depends..... the himesawn wood and the tin from 1960s is pretty good yet, just need to work on the loose nails. Those were the type with the lead heads, the lead is mostly all off and the tin has enough room to vibrate and leak a tad. Fortunately they were on the ridges, and so the leakage is not much.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let’s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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