For sleeved engines you can pull them with B7 (hardened) all thread and nut. Make or have made a round piece of steel to center in the bottom of the sleeve. OD has to be smaller than the ID of the hole in the block so it can pass on up through. A bar of steel for cross bar at top and some spacers to get you up above the deck of the block. If you don't have a metal lathe I find it a VERY useful tool to have. On that 70 D one tool I know you will need is a very large gear puller with fairly long legs to reach back and remove the live pto gear off the crankshaft if you are going that far and if you have live pto. Same puller will be used to remove belt pulley drive gear so you can access the clutch toggles and dogs to clean and lube them. I have a really nice one that uses a hyd. port a power and it screws onto it and can be used in either a 2 jaw or 3 jaw puller. An overhead lifting device is good to have too for the extra heavy parts on that 70D. A oxy/acetylene torch is also a MUST HAVE for old tractor work.
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Today's Featured Article - Harvestin Hay: The Early Years (Part 2) - by Pat Browning. The summer of 1950 was the start of a new era in farming for our family. I was thirteen, and Kathy (my oldest sister) was seven. At this age, I believed tractor farming was the only way, hot stuff -- and given a chance I probably would have used the tractor, Dad's first, a 1936 Model "A" John Deere, to go bring in the cows! And I think Dad was ready for some automation too. And so it was that we acquired a good, used J. I. Case, wire tie hay baler. In addition to a person to drive th
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