When you test for voltage at the ignition side of the coil, did you check it while actually cranking?
Not sure how your tractor is set up, but if the electrical has been changed, and the ignition switch has a start position, a failing switch can loose contact when in the start position.
If that test proves good, move the test light to the distributor side of the coil primary, ground the clip end to the chassis, crank the engine over. The light should flash each time the electronic switch opens and closes. If that test fails, and you rechecked the module wiring and mounting, and know the distributor is turning, sounds like the electronic module has failed.
Like others have said, they are polarity sensitive. Also the coil must be the proper resistance for the application. A 6 volt system needs 1.5 ohm, a 12v needs 3 ohm, measured across the primary terminals of the coil.
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Today's Featured Article - New Life for an Old Allis - by Tyler Woods. My friend Jon, has an old '39 Allis Chalmers B. He thought it a marginal tractor that had long since served its time. She smoked terribly and never had much power but he couldn't afford another so he was limping along with what he had. Jon's Allis has a small front loader and though it doesn't carry much, it serves his needs. It was the hard starting and low power that made him think it was time to replace the old girl. Jon called me to help him discover why his tractor wouldn't start
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