Re: Another bin question...

Posted by andy r on December 04, 2016 at 18:21:38 from (166.181.82.248):

In Reply to: Another bin question... posted by Dave H (MI) on December 04, 2016 at 09:06:24:

With heavy test weight corn and filling an 18 foot bin well into the cone of the roof you can get close to 5000 bushel. That would be a 7 ring bin (narrow rib bin sheets). I know it shouldn't be filled into the roof, but if the corn is dried outside of the bin to 14% I have never had problems. Cold weather easily penetrates an 18 foot bin freezing the corn. I have taken corn out of the bin in late June and it is still very cold.

I have put four 18' bins up in the last 8 years or so. Doing the concrete yourself probably cuts the bill by 1/2. The concrete delivered from town for the one I did this summer was around $800. Somewhere around 8 yards. The foundation for an 18 foot bin generally is a floating monolithic slab. That means there really isn't a footing, but rather a rat barrier. The slab on top is 6" thick. Under the outside one foot circumference the concrete generally is another foot thick under the top 6" slab. The entire slab/rat barrier is poured at one time. The overall diameter of concrete for an eighteen foot bin generally is around 19 feet allowing for 4", 6", or even 8" extra outside of the first ring. In that outside foot circumference where the concrete is 1 1/2 feet thick generally 2 - 5/8" or 3/4" re-rods are "circled" and located about 2" off of the bottom of the trench. I put little stones under the re-rod to hold it up 2" in the concrete and drive 1/2" re-rod stakes to hold one rod 3" inches from the outside and one rod 3" from the inside. In the top 6" slab I use 1/2" re-rod every 2 feet. One set of re-rod go perpendicular to another set of re-rod - looks like a checker board when you are done. Again these re-rod are all wire tied together and held up in the concrete 1/2 way by placing small stones or broken up concrete chunks under the re-rod. I generally put another re-rod around the top outside edge also - generally one 1/2". I have been putting plastic under the floor concrete to eliminate moisture migration. This is very important when there isn't an air floor, even with a floor I have covered the fill before putting the reinforcement in and pouring the concrete. To hold the bin down to the concrete I have been drilling holes into the concrete and using wedgelock bolts after the bin is built and centered on the foundation. To set up the foundation I drive a 1 1/2" pipe into the ground with exactly 1' sticking out. Tie a heavy cord (mason line) on to it making sure it will rotate around the pipe. I tie another rod or similar marking device to the cord 18' 8" out from the center rod. Walk backwards, keeping the cord tight, while scratching the soil. You can use your screed board to do this rather than the string. Drive 2" by 6" stakes every 18" or so on the outside of this line. Buy some 12" house lap siding (somewhat like Masonite)and attach it to the inside of the 2" by 6" stakes with drywall screws using a drill. To level the 12" lap siding as you attach it, I put a screed board on the center pipe and extend it over the lap siding. A couple big nails into the screed board pointed down into the center pipe helps to hold it. Put a level on top of the screed board. If you are doing this by yourself you can use clamps to temporary hold the lap siding while you adjust it up and down and attach it. After it is all formed up I run a 1/2" cable around the outside of the form. Each end of the cable has connecting points so I can snug it up with a ratchet puller (come along/fence stretcher). There is a lot of pressure and the cable holds everything together well. Then I dig the 1' wide trench around the outside 6" deep. The last thing to do is fill the center with 6" of fill - something like waste lime or gravel fines. Dirt will work if you can get it to settle or pack in a timely fashion. At times I have even formed the inside to hold the center fill with a 6" wide piece of lap siding. When done I generally put 6" of gravel against the concrete leaving 6" exposed. There are a lot of variations when doing the forming with the lap siding. One bin the entire 1 1/2' concrete thickness was above ground with deeper fill inside and then backfilled outside. On farm storage offers greater marketing opportunities. Lastly I wouldn't build a bin without an air floor and at least a 3/4 to 1 hp fan. Good luck.

Replies:

• Re: Another bin question... Dave H (MI) 18:56:28 12/04/16 (0)

Add a Reply Name: E-Mail: Subject: Comments: Optional Link URL: Link Title: Optional Image URL: Optional Video Title: Optional Video URL: Email Notification: If you check this box, email will be sent to you whenever someone replies to this message. Your email address must be entered above to receive notification. This notification will be cancelled automatically after 2 weeks.   Advanced Posting Tools   Upload Photo  Select Gallery Photo  Attach Serial # List  Return to Post

TRACTOR PARTS	TRACTOR MANUALS

We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]