Re: Do you burn wood?

Posted by RN on January 08, 2014 at 11:45:53 from (205.213.104.118):

In Reply to: Do you burn wood? posted by Ultradog MN on January 07, 2014 at 09:35:07:

Some European wood burners in houses and large buildings have been in place for 100+ years and still burn clean. These are the high termal mas German/Russian/Finn stoves with the undampered outside air vents for the firebox and a couple tons of rock and tile to absorb the heat before radiating it into rooms. Internal S baffled chimney path, secondary air intake inside the stove above first and second baffle above firebox means wood gas/volatiles/particulates get burned with minimal pollution discharged. Water tanks on/in the thermal mass known- a feature of the German "farm" stove. Benjamin Franklin wrote about the superior "German" stoves compared to the English fireplace and noted the English were running out of convenient firewood- and the experiments he did for retaining heat, gasification burning with a S smoke path resulted in the Franklin Stove- helped some in stretching firewood supplies and it was smaller than the big German structures. Plain firebox"s like the basic Menards/Harbor Freight are usually not external air intake, lack top baffle, lack thermo mass- but a couple years back the Mexican made model was sold for $99.95 and the guy that I bought it for did heat the whole 2 story house from a living room location during a Iowa winter while trying to save money to fix the oil stove in basement. Had to feed it every couple hours but he had lot of wood available and kids learned to take turns doing the wood feeding. It did smoke a bit from tall chimney, town was a little annoyed but he was outside actual municipal border. Norwegian Jutal or Jutul stoves are a larger looking box stove but have a upper baffle for secondary burn and a intake port stub tube that can be connected to outside air-recommended- and a fire brick inner lining that retains heat longer, uses 1/2 the wood of plain fire box for amount of heat, less wood filling required- but about 3 or 4 times the cost. Atlantic(?) Stove works had a couple of soapstone stoves- the "rock" panels replace the cast iron or heavy sheet metal of other stoves and are a good thermal mass, the Potbelly model cutaway showed a upper baffle and a intake vent with dampner tube that could have been hooked to outside wall, inner raised grate and it was the "railroad" model that wood handle wood or chunks of coal. Shipped freight, too heavy for UPS and cost some more for the larger models that had to be assembled by "Factory certified" stove installer for the warranty to be in effect- but did provide long heat before filling cycle. Korean farmhouse stove design had long under floor chimney/hypocaust and a undampered firebox outside of heated room with rock surround, water tank and cooking surface- the kitchen was sealed off from larger living room that had the under floor heat effect. All the old efficient designs have in common a open intake air-often outside air- for best fire burn, secondary "gas" burn and large thermal mass. They also required lots of labor to build from a time of cheap labor that now means a high installation cost. EPA rules add cost to the simple designs, old design has the materials and labor cost. Fisher stoves were some of better "small" designs- heavy sheet metal, some cast iron, internal baffle and both inside fire brick and often outer stone thermal mass, were clean enough until late 1990s when clean burn rules were proposed tighter. Fisher worked some to make a clean burn to meet proposed tighter codes and ended up with the water jacketed outside wood burner huts designs as best to meet building codes, fire codes and emissions code. Catalitic convertors in the stove pipes with heat exchangers getting sold now. ODB11 connected to dampners, thermostats maybe next.RN

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