We will have to go on what you tell us "lifer noise on start up and goes away"...
1) are you sure its lifter noise
If so my first guess would be to confirm it has a OEM oil filter on it and OEM recommended oil...
I have ran into a few GM's that did not like other brands of filters,,, I have a customers Dodge truck that will tap you a song if anything other than a Mopar filter is installed...
Oil I would not use anything heaver than 10/30 I spec it calls for 5/30... I have serviced allot of'em that did use 15/40 with no issues tho so I do not think its a oil weight issue...
The filter would be the EZ thang to replace leave the oil in it you have now :?:
"The noise goes away" I don't think its a ware issue with valve train parts but have seen lifters clear up that were leakers on start up clear up in a few min.
Even if the noise did not go way I am headed in this direction..
After I had the correct filter and oil and knew it was a lifter/rocker tap I would install a master oil pressure gauge as a diagnostic tool....
1) I want to see what the OP is on the starter alone. You will have to disable the ignition and EFI.
If I did not have OP on the starter while cranking immediately Theirs a flag my first thought is its $uck'n air at the pick-up somewere... This would depend on what is going on @ #2
2) I want to see what the OP is while I have the tap installed at idle cold and at 2000 rpm engine cold then run for 10 min. are more... I will run it at idle for 10 min and @ 2000 rpm for 10 min... This will tell you were you need to focus... I have seen allot of valve train and timing tensioners replaced when a op GAUGE WOULD HAVE TOLD THEM TO DROP THE PAN AND INSPECT THE LOWER END FIRST...
You can Google and find know issues as EZ as anyone but before I went hunt'n I want to know what my OP gauge will tell me...
This is a few saved repairs I have had with lifter noise...
On cold start up Or after 2 To 3 Hr set,I have lifter noise like they are bleed down. With manual op gauge hooked up it takes 10 sec. for oil pressure to start to rise. Then will quickly rise to 65psi. @ idle cold. I have no lower bearing noise. At idle hot Oil pressure is 15psi hot and 50psi at 1500 rpm.If you run engine at 2000 rpm for a few min. and come back to idle Lifer noise will return for about 20 to 30 sec. I have run at 2000rpm on lift for 30min. and oil pressure will hold @50psi. Engine is as clean or as clean as a new in the valve covers, no varnish or sludge. Oil filter has a check valve (have tried AC and purolator filters..
The fix...
When I Removed oil pan to check lower end I had to remove oil pick up screen to remove oil pan gasket. when I pulled the screen down I saw the problem. The gasket had slipped Between the block and p/u screen, It was sucking air. I checked bearings anyway (as I always do if I am going their with OP are noise issues I check ALL of THEM not one are two of the EZ ones ALL of them. Its time and money WELL spent) and they were ok. The lower end and pan were as clean as new, when I restarted engine I had instant oil pressure and no lifter noise. 70psi cold and 45psi hot @ idle. One more interesting comment Before repair cranking OP. 0psi and after repair 20psi. This is with ignition disabled. After I let it set for a day and restarted cold their was a slight ticking noise from lifters but cleared up in a few seconds. I would consider this normal with 100K. I had three replies and they all said lifters worn,,, Aerated oil was problem.
The other one I had that had lifter noise that would go away...
It passed all The OP test crank'n and run'n,,, I removed the pan and installed a external oil tank I could inject oil into the engine under pressure. I was looking for a massive leak oil leak somewhere up high. I controlled the UP to 30PSI all I could tell was lots of oil was coming somewhere above the cam but not from the cam bearings. I removed the intake and the lifters were bleeding a excessive amount of oil from around the center to body,,, A new set of lifters fixed it...
This post was edited by Hobo,NC at 09:47:08 07/14/13.
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