They can be identified without too much trouble. The easiest way of course, is to post a picture and let some Tecumseh ace tell you what it is. Next step, is it horizontal or vertical? The first character in the model no. will be "H" or "V" depending on it's configuration. The next character will be "H" for cast iron or "M" for aluminum. There was about 3 engine families in aluminum. 2.5-3.5 hp., 5hp., 8-10hp. These nos. were at the end of the model number and told the horse power. They slapped some extra zeros in there for no apparent reason, thus: HM50 (5hp), HM80 (8hp), HM100 (10hp). The cast iron family worked the same way, only they were bigger: HH100,HH120, HH160, etc. (I have never seen an HH under 10hp). There is another cast iron family known as "OHV" (overhead valves). OHV120, OHV140, OHV160. The HMs were easy to tell apart, but the HHs and the OHVs are less so. If you want to pinpoint the hp., you will need a I-T air-cooled engine booklet. They print the bore size right to the hp. so it is easy to identify what you have.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let’s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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