Well start off with the obis ones first , water in oil , oil in the water , milky looking hyd. fluid , does the heater work , does the lights all work , does the FUEL GAUGE work , how sloppy is the ft. end . Do the brakes work and also look to see if the wires to the brake censors are hooked up and not unplugged or cut off ( they are on the brake drums on the side near the top of the drum .) How bad are the cab mounts >> Cab settling can lead to shifting problems . How well does it shift ?? Dose it double shift when you start off?? NOW HOW TO TEST A Hyd T/A drive the tractor around for a while and let it warm up a bit . Find and area that you can get it in high range in like high 3rd or road gear and at full throttle , start loading the engine with the brakes and bring her down to around 1500 -1600 RPM and with your foot ready on the clutch pedal pull the T/A shift lever back IF it shifts down wright away your good to go for how long only god can tell ya that and he never has told me yet. NOW IF when you pull the T/A into low and you find yourself coming out of the seat and headed for the windshield it is in your best interest to stomp the clutch down because that bad T/A just might grab ahold and the next thing you will see is the sky when she pulls the ft. end about five feet off the ground . So if it stops dead in her tracks when you pull the T/A into low it will need a T/A job . If it shift fine then at some point it's going to need a T/A job . I H only built two tractors - one the T/A is OUT and TWO the T/A is going out. Just like Cars and pick ups with automatic transmissions ya got the ones that are already smoked out and the ones going down the highway going out . How long will a T/A last ??? don't know all the ones i have installed are still going and that covers a lot of years . Keeping a T/A working is not hard , just keep the oil and filter changed and stay up on clutch adjustment and the trans. brake and dump valve and never ever use the T/A to slow down with it's not a JAKE BRAKE.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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