Joe, here's a picture of what I used, as Mr. Nicholson and CNKS described. The threads you are describing are internal, in the crankshaft, but have nothing to do with the pulley, except that you can use those threads to pull the pulley back on.
As CNKS describes, I had a big-*ss bearing separator, and tightened it good behind the pulley. You want it to press against the thickened
'shoulder' on the back of the pulley that is only maybe 3/4 of the width of the pulley itself. Don't pull on the perimeter of the pulley, or it will break.
In my picture, the upper and lower arrows point to the jaws of the puller overhanging the bearing separator. The question is then where to put the 'point' of the puller, since you don't want to bung up the internal threads. I screwed a bolt into those threads (I think they're 7/16's), and then drilled a 'divot' onto the center of the head of the bolt, as a 'seat' for the point of the puller, because otherwise it wanted to 'walk' around the head of the bolt.
I heated it with a propane torch for maybe 15 minutes (or it seemed like that long) until it was too hot to touch, and then cranked on the puller, even WAY harder than I thought was prudent, and as CNKS said, I heard a LOUD *bang* and thought I broke something, but it was just the pulley starting to slip. It had to *bang* one more time before it started to come off easier.
Don't forget to inspect the part where the middle arrow points, where the seal rubbed. I put on a speedi-sleeve. Don't want this worn area to muck up your new seal.
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Today's Featured Article - The River Tractor - by Charlie English Jr.. This is a 4010 John Deere that was used to farm on the Diamond Island which is in the Ohio River about 15 miles southwest of Evansville, Indiana. About ten years ago, this tractor was parked close to the bank as the river was washing the bank of the island away.
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