So that's where those other gaskets go! LOL I must have five or six of them running around. (Truthfully I'll have to go look -- I have remnants of two or three sets out there that I have to scavenge around in for something now and then. Last time I think it was for the mag/distributor mount.)
I wish I could have offered more about the goal in flattening out the pick-up cover, but I haven't actually had to do it. Just lucky, I guess. For Pete in MI, my understanding of the aim of that whole operation is to have a good seal and to have the clearance between the ends of the gears and the cover within spec. which is .0035 to .006 inches. I'm not sure how one would check that with anything other than plastigauge. Others who know more about it may jump in to confirm or correct that, or with a better way. But to P&R Pete's point, between worn components and then having some slight amount of material honed off in leveling the face of the cover, the gaskets do double-duty as shims to help set that clearance. So it's important to have the correct (not the Correct Police correct, but the mechanically correct) gaskets on hand to make that clearance right.
And the best idea of the day is the gauge. Some IH gauges of that era came marked for actual pressure, usually topping out at 45 or 75 pounds, depending on the tractor. Others, like the one original to the C, came with a dial showing simply a red zone and an operating range. A good first step, before dismantling anything would be to get to an auto parts and for $15 or so, pick up a Stewart Warner or other make gauge with some calibrations on it to swap in in place of the IH gauge. I've got one physically comparable to the one on the C (simple housing with the garden variety 1/8" NPT fitting on the back) and graduated by tens from 20 up to 80 psi. I've used it on all sort of things to get a better idea of what actual pressure is (though it's by no means certified to be accurate) and as a comparison for a suspect gauge. Quite handy, it lives in a zip-loc bag in the same drawer as my compression gauges.
The book calls for 50-60 psi with the motor at full tilt (1400-1540 rpm) but, honestly, I've never seen it on anything but a good tight motor with a fresh-ground crank. 40 would probably be a more typical high, 20-25 would indicate some wear that will eventuallyhneed attention if the tractor is a worker, but is not cause for alarm.
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Today's Featured Article - Uncle Cecil's Super A Lives Again - by Mike Purcell. A week or so out of most of my childhood summers was often spent with my Uncle Cecil and Aunt Sissie in the small East Texas town of Maydelle on their 80 acre farm. Some of my fondest memories of these visits are those of learning to drive a tractor at the helm of Uncle Cecil’s 1948 Farmall Super A. Uncle Cecil was the second owner of this wonderful little tractor, but it was almost as though he had adopted an infant. The original owner was a man from Minnesota who bought her from a local dea
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