What sort of a puller are you using? (pics would be nice) And have you verified that you have clearance to the flange at the top of the sleeve so you are actually pulling relative to the block and not simply attempting to crush the sleeve?
Relative to the Sawzall, that's a classic method for removing a generic sleeve but I'd be worried about going too deep. I think I'd try a file or a die grinder first to create a couple notches which might create a (helpful) fracture.
IMHO while there are a few torch wizards out there that's a little too sensitive for the typical class of work. Any burrs, bubbles, or drips will create resistance and be dragged past the existing machining, creating damage.
Here is what I used on my 340's engine block recently. This worked well. The bottom puck has a pilot which clears the sleeve bore by about .020". It simply keeps the threaded rod centered. and the OD is slightly undersized as well so it doesn't drag any more than the OD of the sleeve.
This post was edited by mattofvinings at 15:30:30 08/03/09 2 times.
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Today's Featured Article - Measuring with Calipers - by Staff. The legs of inside calipers are curved outward at the extremities to facilitate measuring small holes, while outside caliper legs have a large curve inward to increase their capacity for large work. Firm-joint calipers are adjusted approximately by the hands and then set to the feel of the work by tapping them on a metal surface. It is a common practice when opening calipers by this means to tap the top of the joint. It is better, if possible, to tap the inside of the legs, as repeated blo
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