I don't claim to be an expert and I'm still sorting out my hydraulic problems. However based on what I have learned so far:
1. You cylinders/bucket should not sag absent a leaking seal in a cylinder or somewhere else. If all cylinders are sagging then the leak is somewhere else and most likely a bypass check valve. It could be that it is plugged, iced open or whatever. This would also account for not enough fluid and pressure to move the bucket all the time. Go to www.caseih.com and search for parts for your model or a similar model of that age. There will be a diagram for everything. Look also to see if any lines go to the case under the seat cause there may be a check valve there that may be the culprit and frozen water/sludge may be the problem somewhere.
2. I am at the point on mine, that I am just going to start opening a line (with the tractor off) and then test it to see if there is enough fluid and psi coming out and do this until I isolate the problem part.
3. You can flow test your own pump. Break a line loose and put it in a 5 gal bucket. Start tractor and the valve for whatever line you broke loose. As an example, a 12 gpm pump will put out about 1 gal every 5 seconds. Mark your bucket and check the time it takes to do a couple gallons. Just don't do enough to empty your supply to the pump. Doing this trial and error method may help you find the bad part. The flow test doesn't tell you about the exact pressure though. You have to put a tee in somewhere with a 3000# psi guage to do that. I haven't bought one cause those guages are not very cheap and I haven't found one yet. But from the flow test, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to guess whether you have a problem or not with psi as it may just blow it out so fast you can't keep it in the bucket. These high pressures are something to be very careful of and you don't want to be in the line of fire.
On the manuals, look to this website or do a search on ebay for your model and manual. Lots of manuals there at varying prices.
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Today's Featured Article - Measuring with Calipers - by Staff. The legs of inside calipers are curved outward at the extremities to facilitate measuring small holes, while outside caliper legs have a large curve inward to increase their capacity for large work. Firm-joint calipers are adjusted approximately by the hands and then set to the feel of the work by tapping them on a metal surface. It is a common practice when opening calipers by this means to tap the top of the joint. It is better, if possible, to tap the inside of the legs, as repeated blo
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