Al, most discussions I've seen on here recommend using flat aluminum for wheel paint, and it's worked well for me.
As for prep, depends on what shape they're in. I've used needle scalers and wire wheels and sandblasted. The method depends really on how much rust and how deep it is, i.e. some balance between making sure you've got the worst of the rust gone while making sure you leave enough metal to hold air (even under a tube) and the weight of the tractor safely.
For rust treatment, I've used a Permatex spray-on rust stopper for small areas. For larger expanses on rusty rims, I use a product I found at Home Depot or Lowe's in the paint department -- JASCO rust treatment, light green in a round quart bottle. There are other similar products. I've been told of one called Ospho. Basically they're a dilute solution of phosphoric acid that converts any remaining rust from iron oxide to iron phosphate, much more stable. about the same concept as bluing a gun barrel, and both leave a primable, paintable surface, though they might require some scuffing before putting anything on top of them.
As for the rest of the tractor. Depends on whether pretty is important. Short of a complete paint job, a good cleaning followed by a wire wheel and a rust treatment is a good start for any problem spot. If you're not fussy, good old IH2150 in a rattle can over the rust treatment (again, scuff it first) will stop any deterioration.
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Today's Featured Article - The Rescue of a Fordson F - by Anthony West. Introduction I live in the UK and have for many years restored Fordson tractors (in the main model N's). I have also restored and shown model F's, E 27N's, Field Marshall Series 2, David Brown Cropmasters and the old rey Fergeson T 20. At one time I had seven restored examples which were shown and used in ploughing matches. As most restorers, I have a number of war stories I can relate on a range of topics that may help other like minded and interested people. Perhaps my first p
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