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I don't usually look at your progress but I did, and I looked at the picc of the cylinders. My comments would be: that engine doesn't look particularly stuck. It looks positively good for the most part. It looks nothing like most I have dealt with. Clean above the pistons scrupulously, paying particular attention to the area immediately above where the piston is (that last - or first - mm). Remove the big end cap from the worst cylinder and try turning the engine (away from that rod) as it looks as though it can only be tight on one pot). Use a large piece of end grain hardwood, shaped approx circular, and a large hammer/maul to move the crank by striking the pistons you wish to move. You could try moving the crank up, but only by a mm or so ( not enough to hit crank against stuck rod) Then loosen that worst piston. If it won't move - and I can see no reason why it would not - move the worst piston just enough to crack the rust and no more - or, again, damage to the crank may result. Then you should be able to get everything moving easily. Remember, two pots are likely on compression and power strokes so valves would have been closed, so little corrosion problem in them, one would have been on inlet, so if air cleaner was on that one should be relatively OK, and the worst is likely the pot on the exhaust stroke with the exhaust valve open. As I commented earlier, your engine looks only to be slightly stuck, nothing like some I have seen, so you may have other issues in the bottom end causing the seizure. Also remember, if you need to 'dot' the rods and caps, they should be marked on the camshaft side so anyone would know which way round they should be fitted, if removed at any future time. They are likely already marked anyway. RAB
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