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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

Its decapitated

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Lanse

01-29-2008 19:24:10




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no, not just the barn. The head is off the tractor, and i poured ATF into all 4 cylenders. None of them are scoured, and there is a very small amount of rust in cylenders 2 and 3. 1 and 4 only have some rust, a very little. I think that could be solved by some engine degreaser and steel wool. The ATF is in, so i guess now all i can do is wait. The head, valve cover, and rocker arms are all safely on the shelf. One of those long things is bent about 20 degrees or so. Everything apperes to be in good shape, so i am pretty happy right now :-)

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Leroy

01-30-2008 17:10:18




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 Re: Its decapitated in reply to Lanse, 01-29-2008 19:24:10  
Those little AC engines (ours was on a AC 60 combine) were known to have valves stick and by trying to crank the engine you would bend the push rods. Those push rods can be straightened (that was done on our combine engine, it was a 1944 model B engine) and reused.



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trucker40

01-30-2008 10:30:33




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 Re: Its decapitated in reply to Lanse, 01-29-2008 19:24:10  
Whatever you use on the rust in the cylinders dont go up and down the cylinder,go around the cylinder.If you cut grooves up and down it will burn lots of oil.Steel wool might not do much so you get sandpaper or somthing,then think its easier to sand up and down in the cylinder.Dont do that.Sounds like it maybe isnt stuck too bad but you could push sleeves and all out now with the head off.You can soak it easier with penetrating stuff now.You have to be carefull with the sleeves if you push one out and beat on it,they are brittle and break kind of easy.Another thing they do if you beat on them is they look ok but as soon as you get it running a hunk falls off of the top and ruins a piston.

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gary tomaszewski

01-30-2008 09:08:52




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 Re: Its decapitated in reply to Lanse, 01-29-2008 19:24:10  
If you haven't already, Go to the A-C board, look for A-C B post by 1951g. Very nice link to Dick Lemmon's pics of restoring a B. If what your describing about the cylinders is correct, then you might have rushed the taking apart, with patience surface rust would have loosened with ATF.



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Leland

01-30-2008 06:27:38




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 Re: Its decapitated in reply to Lanse, 01-29-2008 19:24:10  
If the atf does not lossen the pistons up ,try pouring coke in the clinders for about a week ,and the long thingy is a push rod .maybe before going further on this project you need to read several tech manuals so you can better ID parts . .



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Paul from MI

01-30-2008 04:57:12




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 Re: Its decapitated in reply to Lanse, 01-29-2008 19:24:10  
You are probably going to have your local machine shop grind the valve on your head before you put it back on. Not too expensive, last one I had done on a JD B was $30. Don't waste a gasket set by putting the head back on without making sure the valves are really good, especially on a hand start tractor. Finding a bent pushrod is a sure indication that one of them was stuck. Even though it doesn't really make any difference I still mark nearly everything as I dis-assemble. Takes no time and can save a lot of grief later. Keep us posted.
Paul

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big jt

01-29-2008 21:37:47




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 Re: Its decapitated in reply to Lanse, 01-29-2008 19:24:10  
Lanse

Congrats on getting the head off and finding what sounds like good news. Almost everybody else has offered the advice of using patience and I will also.

Start looking for a straight long thing which I also beleive to be a push rod (Post a picture when you have time).

I will also reinforce what 2t2@ia said earlier. Make sure you don't let this tractor project take time away from your school work. That is more important. I know I frustrated 2t2@ia (trust me I did) when I was your age and now I wish I had spent some more time on my school work.

good luck and keep us posted

jt

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Andy Motteberg

01-29-2008 20:08:52




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 Re: Its decapitated in reply to Lanse, 01-29-2008 19:24:10  
Sounds like it is going pretty good. If the ATF won't work for you, try the PB Blaster or brake fluid. If the motor still won't loosen up after long periods of soaking, take off the oil pan and rod caps and work the pistons out. Put a block of wood in the cylinders and hammer on the wood with a hammer. Do NOT hammer the top of the pistons without a block of wood or you will damage the pistons.



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Bob Kerr

01-29-2008 22:58:59




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 Re: Its decapitated in reply to Andy Motteberg, 01-29-2008 20:08:52  
As Andy says block of wood and I cut the wood slightly tapered on one end and hit the piston at the side right next to the sleeve wall. If you hit the top it can pop a hole in it. I got one unstuck with nothing but a little splash of kero and hit one side of the piston and then the opposite side with every tap so the piston would rock in the bore a little bit. Worked like a charm! this thing was super rusted and you couldn"t tell where the piston stopped and the sleeve wall began. Had it unstuck in an hour and a half and no damage! Even reused the old cast iron pistons and sleeves. (I still can"t belive they cleaned up good enough to reuse!) If your oil pan is off you can put a piece of wood up against a crank shaft throw that is horizontal and use a jack under that to get it to move. Just tap those pistons easy, it don"t take much to losen them like I decribed.

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Gordon in In

01-29-2008 19:56:47




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 Re: Its decapitated in reply to Lanse, 01-29-2008 19:24:10  
Sounds like you are on the right track. Now how about that pan and the oil drain plug?

One advantage to waiting until the very last to paint the tractor is that you will not "skin it all up" and scratch and scuff the paint while working on it.

If you are going to be trying to get the pistons un-stuck you may want to retain the cylinder sleeves in the block with some short lengths of pipe and washers and nuts on the cylinder head studs (You can use short bolts that fit the threads in the block and some washers if the studs have been removed.) (Or if the engine had cylinder head bolts instead of "studs and nuts".)

The cylinder sleeves can "come out" of the block with the pistons, if the pistons are stuck. After you get the pistons "free" be sure to cut the "ridge" out of the top of the cylinders so that the pistons will come out of the cylinder. The tool for this job is a "cylinder ridge reamer".

If you are going to put in a new piston/cylinder sleeve kit, (and throw away the old pistons and sleeves - if they are worn out) you can take the cylinder sleeves and pistons out of the block together and simply "break the sleeves" off of the pistons to get the connecting rods and piston pins out of the pistons. Be careful not to damage the connecting rods if you take this approach. You will likely want to reuse the connecting rods.

Good luck on your efforts, Gordon in IN

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Ken L

01-29-2008 19:40:42




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 Re: Its decapitated in reply to Lanse, 01-29-2008 19:24:10  
If one of those long things is a push rod, check to make sure that the valves aren't stuck. Wouldn't want to put the head back on and have a stuck valve and, it's a lot easier to get them loose with the head off.



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