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Lawn Prep

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Randy R

09-05-2004 08:38:29




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Folks: What would be the best way to prepare a piece of land for a new lawn, like after a new house is built and all you have is scrappy field and weeds around it? Thanks!
Also I've never had anything to do with a middlebuster, but have seen them. What are they used for?




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KURT (mi)

09-06-2004 12:14:42




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 Re: Lawn Prep in reply to Randy R, 09-05-2004 08:38:29  
I just put in a lawn, about 6000sq. ft. I had some clean fill delivered, I had a buddy use a dozer and doze it in. Then I used a 4X6 anchored to the back of a lawn tractor the 4X6 had railroad spikes hammered in 2-3" and I had the head end of the spikes sticking out 3 inches and I just drove around and around until it was smooth. Then I bought $50 of grass seed and used a pull behind spreader on the tractor and spread the seed then used the 4X6 again on the tractor to rake it in., the Grass looks good a few bare spots where the rain off the roof washed the seed away, so I will have to reseed that area.

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Indydirtfarmer

09-06-2004 03:33:15




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 Re: Lawn Prep in reply to Randy R, 09-05-2004 08:38:29  
Many answers to this question. A great deal of variables in the question. What kind of surface soil do you have AFTER the construction? I'm finish grading one now that has a foot of dried up "muck" from a pond bottom. If it's not decent dirt, you MIGHT need top soil (maybe in just SOME areas) Generally, I'll start with a box scraper. Get things to grade. Then I MIGHT disc or roto-till if needed. Then I'll fertilize (per need). I have the means of doing basic soil testing. Fertilizer/lime is added ONLY as needed. Then I'll run over everything with a pulverizer. ("Finishing" tool). Now we're ready to seed. Depending on size, I'll use a push type broadcast spreader, a tractor rear mount "spinner", a drop seader, or a power seeder. (I use 6 foot Woods "Turf Renovator) I have a landscape rake that gets used when needed, to keep all the "construction trash" clened up. Good luck. John

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Steve-Mid MO

09-05-2004 21:53:53




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 Re: Lawn Prep in reply to Randy R, 09-05-2004 08:38:29  
Sorry about my late response but I just got to the computer and saw your question. I put in a 1-acre lawn on our new home 8 years ago and it turned out great. If you have the time and can put in a lot of labor don't hire it out. Contractors and even lawn care businesses just want your money and don't give a hoot about how well the job is done. We moved in April and of course we wanted a yard and it was spring so I hired the contractor for an exra $1,000 to put in the yard and after 1-day of work I told him the deal was off and he could keep the house. The contractor had used a bobcat scoop to level the soil and then by hand they were throwing grass seed out. I WAS FURIOUS! There were rocks the size of books, 2x4 pieces, no soil bed, and clods of dirt the size of shoes laying around. The contractor gave in and I did the job in the fall myself. I mowed down all the weeds, used a 9N ford tractor with an 8-ft drag disc and worked the soil up good. I added 3 dump-truck loads of horse manure with aged sawdust (don't use fresh sawdust cause it'll sap the soil of nutrients). I spent days picking up construction scraps and rocks by hand, should've got a rock rake. I put a 1-section harrow behind my riding lawnmower to level it. Then used kentucky tall fescue with a push broadcast spreader. Covered it twice
at different angles. Also used a tiller and hand rake in spots close to the house, sidewalk, driveway, trees, etc. Be sure to get seed that has a tag with the weed amount and germination rate posted. I found a farmer who sold it for 30-cents a pound, great price, great seed. With seeding, I added a starter fertilizer with the broadcast spreader. I then used the riding lawnmower with old box springs from a bed to mix the seed in just slightly with the dirt. With help from family we spread by hand about 100 bales of straw to cover it. Straw is crucial. It keeps the seed moist acting as a mulch and later is returned as nutrients to the soil. We then watered lightly every other day to keep it moist until it came up. We kept it watered then the next summer. August is the best month in the midwest for preparing a lawn and then have it seeded by labor day when cool fall weather arrives. You can still put in a lawn though but warm fall weather helps. Fall is much better than spring because the heat in the summer in Missouri will kill a new lawn that's seeded in april. A lawn can even be seeded in warm february weather here. If your yard is big, like ours was, I would suggest breaking it down into projects. We prepared our seedbed over the whole area but
seeded and strawed over a 2-week period in 3 seperate land pieces to ease the workload. I know this got long but hope it helps.

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kjm

09-05-2004 18:47:03




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 Re: Lawn Prep in reply to Randy R, 09-05-2004 08:38:29  
Randy, Just a thought to add to the others, two years ago I did my new yard with fescue 231 the price at the box stores was 50.00 a bag and at the local feed store it was 22.50 for the same thing. I used a broadcast spreader and went N to S, E to W, then corner to corner at 1/4 rate each time and it came out great.



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jc

09-05-2004 19:25:29




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 Re: Lawn Prep in reply to kjm, 09-05-2004 18:47:03  
Hope you looked at the certification tag on both seed bags. Seed sold at a farm center for field use can have an allowable amount of weed seed. The more expensive seed of the same variety for lawn should be completly free of noxious seed. I sell both types.



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Jimmy King

09-05-2004 14:43:12




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 Re: Lawn Prep in reply to Randy R, 09-05-2004 08:38:29  
Pour concret from fence to fence pant it green, Will have to repaint from time to time but never mow!!!!!



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OiCuR12

09-05-2004 15:04:14




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 Re: Lawn Prep in reply to Jimmy King, 09-05-2004 14:43:12  
Wouldn't green and yellow be more appropriate considering the original intent behind this website?



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Icabod

09-06-2004 06:00:08




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 Re: Lawn Prep in reply to OiCuR12, 09-05-2004 15:04:14  
Grow up!!



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greenbeanman in Kansas

09-05-2004 13:17:58




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 Re: Lawn Prep in reply to Randy R, 09-05-2004 08:38:29  
Here is what I did to my daughter's and son-in-law's home site once the house was done.

I picked up all visible debris then used a box blade and loader to bring the soil to the grade we wanted. The initial backfill work had already been done, but we opted for a little higher level on the foundation.

I then disked the ground, picked up all visible debris that had resurfaced, used a box blade to fill any low spots, picked up any new debris, roto-tilled with a tractor tiller, pulled bed springs over it repeatedly to settle the ground and to fine it up some, picked up any debris, raked a little by hand, then we planted it using a motorized seeder from a rental place.

The seeder was really built for overseeding a lawn, but it did a surprisingly EXCELLENT job on the bare ground.

My SIL didn't add any starter fertilizer at any point, but personally I would have had it been mine.

I would also have used a landscape rake if I had owned one. This would probably have eliminated a lot of the extra work from not having one.

Be sure to settle the ground with water or a rainfall before planting. You may need to relevel some spots that settle unevenly.

Now that I think about it, we pre-watered before planting, and a shower right after planting helped the watering situation. Water, water, water to keep the seed from drying out is key to proper germination.

I would also recommend that you plant according to the prescribed planting rate. If you over plant it will fill in much quicker, but will ALWAYS require more water and fertilizer than if you let the proper amount fill in normally.

Use extreme care when right next to the building so that a soft spot doesn't sink a tire and throw your tractor into the siding. I've not done that yet, but always worry about it.

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Leland

09-05-2004 11:28:00




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 Re: Lawn Prep in reply to Randy R, 09-05-2004 08:38:29  
O'h the middle buster is to break up the hard pan in the subsoil to let water and air get to roots and loosen up soil. not a good thing to prep a lawn with



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Leland

09-05-2004 11:24:55




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 Re: Lawn Prep in reply to Randy R, 09-05-2004 08:38:29  
If it is real weedy I would bush hog it, let it dry then plow it about 4-5 in deep to bury all trash. Then a light disking then drag it until level ,fertlize-seed and drag again to cover seed, And you may want to spread straw to keep seed moist unless you can afford lots of water.



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TheRealRon

09-05-2004 09:04:10




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 Re: Lawn Prep in reply to Randy R, 09-05-2004 08:38:29  
That depends. I planted 4 acres of new lawn several years ago. I had a D9 clear it, waited until the soil moisture was perfect, and then dragged a 10' length of railroad track, chained on both ends, over it with a truck. It was as flat as a pool table when I got done. Then just buy high quality seed from a reputable source, cast the seed, and hope it rains every day for 2-3 weeks 'cause if it don't you have to water it every day until the first cutting.

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