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Fordson Tractors Discussion Forum

Block corrosion

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Ian

08-21-2004 16:20:53

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I have a 1955 Fordson Major Diesel which i am trying to restore. The head gasket blew on the engine so we took it apart to see what was going on inside. Piston number 3 had a huge gap down the side enough to stick a finger or 2 down so i know its pretty much as good as useless and really should be replaced, but the others look fine. I also know its leaking a small amount of coolant (50% water and 50% anti freeze) into the oil. So i am guessing the O ring seals are perished. I'fe also been told by a guy who used to repair these tractors for a living years ago that i would need a new short engine, which as far as i know are impossible to get these days. He said that they had 19 tractors and they took the pistons and liners out of all of them (hammered them out i think) and 17 of them needed a new short engine due to corrosion at the bottom where the liners sit and the seal goes. And only 2 of them didn't need a new short engine. But I saw a forum post saying you could use this sealant stuff RTV. I was just wondering if anyone could give me any advice on this as to has anyone else tried it ? And is it a long term solution to the problem. I mean engines get hot and so i assume the sealant has to withstand this. What sort of RTV stuff should be used as i looked it up and its used to repair fish tanks and other things like that. As it stands i can stick it back together, the head has been skimmed and I have a new gasket set for it, and I know it will run for a bit more like this but this is not really a long term fix. I've never taken liners out of a tractor before so i dont entirely know what is envolved. I've read the descriptions of pulling them out with home made pullers, which i dont think sounds too hard. I can get the replacement parts easy enough as i found a local supplier. Can get new bearings pistons liners crank shaft but its just the work of taking it apart and put it all back together. Is it something that can do without any special tools or without sending it away to a specialist to do. I can see putting new liners in being a real pain in the arse to do. I have plently of time to work on this project so thats not really a problem. Any help or tips you guys could give would greatly be appreciated :)

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Majorman

08-24-2004 09:15:19

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Re: Block corrosion in reply to Ian, 08-21-2004 16:20:53

Ian,
Steven is right, your expert must be employed to sell blocks!!

Even if the ring groove is badly worn it can be recovered and built up using an old "O" ring, a lower part of an old sleeve and Belzona a special filler readily available.

Thoroughly clean the area and put the "O" ring in the groove. Cut the bottom off an old liner just above the area where the seal fits. Oil and push this into the block. Fill the gaps around the short liner with Belzona and leave to harden. When really hard draw out the short liner and remove the "O" ring. This should leave you with a perfect ring groove, you can then fit your new parts.

Engines I have repaired like this are still running OK after 40 years.

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Ian

08-24-2004 09:34:46

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Re: Block corrosion in reply to Majorman, 08-24-2004 09:15:19

okay thanks for the advice
i think i got all the information i need now
all i need to do now is remove the sump and pull the liners. Some people bang them out with a block of hardwood and a large hammer. And some people seem to pull them with a home made puller. Is it bad to bang them out ? I dont really think i'll be keeping them. One piston is cracked behond any sort of repair. One of the liners is fairly badly corroded at the top where the gasket went so. Anyway might as well replace them all.

From what i believe when they repaired these tractors years ago, if there was something wrong they would often replace the short engine because it was easier and required a lot less work than pulling all the liners etc. I believe it was cheaper too.

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Steven B

08-23-2004 05:12:55

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Re: Block corrosion in reply to Ian, 08-21-2004 16:20:53

The block should be ok, that "EXPERT" sounds like a wacker to me. I have built loads of these engines. I have described the sleeve pulling tool befor in this forum so just look under the archives. Leave the engine in the tractor while pulling the sleeves, they can be in tight. Failing that, just strip the block and get it hot tanked and get the shop to pull the sleeves.

I use high temp silcone on the botom o rings, it acts as a lubricant and then seals. Get stuck in and rebuild it properly. It will se us all in the grave if you do, they are a strong engine.

Steven B

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Ian

08-23-2004 05:29:06

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Re: Block corrosion in reply to Steven B, 08-23-2004 05:12:55

what do you mean by get it hot tanked ?

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Ian

08-23-2004 07:45:30

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Re: Block corrosion in reply to Ian, 08-23-2004 05:29:06

okay i looked it up
block does seem fairly dirty inside
might consider getting it cleaned properly

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