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Paul in OZ
03-26-2003 02:57:20
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Re: Re: dexta clutch,need help!!! in reply to Don H, 03-25-2003 20:53:25
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As Don alluded, you may find that the last person to use the tractor before you got it wasn't using the pto clutch & had the clutch linkage connection on the forward most setting. This is done to prevent unnecessary usage of the pto clutch during normal operation of the tractor using drag only type implements ( rippers, discs, ploughs & such ). If the clutch linkage is on the transmission only setting the clutch pedal will be at a moderate height from the foot plate. Follow the clutch linkage to where it connects to the clutch release arm on the side of the bellhousing. Remove the clevis pin & move the connection to the rearward hole. Now the clutch pedal will be sitting fairly high up from the foot plate. If the pto still doesnt engage smoothly, adjust the bolt that connects with the clutch release arm, making sure you retain a half inch of freeplay in the pedal before any pressure is felt as the clutch release bearing come into contact with the transmission clutch fingers. If I've lost you let Me know & I'll attempt to explain better. If the oil leaking from the weep hole has been severe, it may have covered the pto clutch friction plate & wont allow any solid contact. If this is happening, your only fix is to split the tractor & replace the friction plate. If your going to do this you may as well replace the rear main seal, the pilot bearing, clutch release bearing & input shaft bearings & seals. Spending the dollars on parts now will save having to split the tractor again later. If you have an I & T manual, you can't go wrong. I'd never done a clutch before & managed to do the job once I had the manual.If the pto friction plate has "grown" onto the pressure plate & wont free up by putting a load on it using a pto implement ( start the trator with the pto engaged...be carefull)and pumping the clutch intermittently, then your going to have to strip the clutch. Remember to mark the clutch parts with a punch before pulling it apart, so it goes back together the same as it was originally.The clutches are to some degree balanced when originally set up.The pressure plates can be cleaned up using a fine wire disc on an angle grinder. Check the clutch fingers for cracks ( these parts are not available separately )& make sure the finger link pins arent able to spin as they will be worn & the fingers will sit at different heights & make setting the clutch up near impossible. A complete clutch set up is available from Bareco & costs about $1200 australian. Friction plates are under a $100 australian each.The friction plates are 9" & 11" if I remember correctly. There are two weep holes that oil can come out of. One is under the flywheel & the other is at the rear of the bellhousing. The bellhousing one tells you if your input shaft seals are leaking & the flywheel one tells you the rear main seal is leaking. If you replace the rear main seal, remember to soak the two halves of the seal in oil over night. I didnt & now have to do the job again if I want to stop the drip....ah well...live & learn. OH... by the way .. I'm a novice at this, but I managed to get My old girl going. Give it a go, You'll never learn much if you just pay someone else to do it for you.I was well chuffed when I got her going. Nothing quite like that feeling of pride when you've accomplished a task well for the first time. good luck. Let us know how you go.
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