Rear Forks / Arms

First push the knob fully home with the main lift lever fully raised. Push the flat ended cast lever to point to the foot board. Then lower the main lever a little at a time and your rear weight should go down gently.

The knob selects either internal (in) services (lift arms) or external services (out) (loader).
The flat ended lever selects either draft control when parallel to the lift cover (used for soil engageing implements and tipping trailers and loader work) or position control, when pointing at the foot board. (implements used above the ground needing to be at a fixed height such as fertilizer spreaders, GRASS MOWERS etc).
It is also used for hitching implements onto the rear lift arms. In position control you have full control over the lift arms. If you want them to raise a short distance, move the lever a short distance and watch the arms.

Also, in draft control, the implement can raise out of control if for any reason pressure is applied to the top link. (you can see a large spring on this link). This is normal and how the tractor controls the load being applied to it by the soil engaging implement. I can tell you from experience, it is rather frightening to have an implement start to raise and then go out of control because pressure is being applied to this link. Even if you push the main control lever to the bottom of the quadrant, the implement will continue to raise.

When you need the loader again, hitch up your weight, raise it to the top and pull out the knob. Select draft control and away you go. Do not use the loader or tipping trailer with the flat ended lever in position control. If your lift sinks down slightly, the internal linkage senses this and trys to correct the drop. If you are operating with the knob pulled out, the oil is diverted away from the internal ram cylinder and to an external point eg. your loader. As this oil will not lift the lift arms and so trigger the cut off pin, the loader (or trailer) will lift again out of control. (I have driven through our local town dropping scenery from a trailer that I was using to transport it for our drama group because I forgot to select draft control).

Hope this helps
Brian

Now... after you have got your mower onto your tractor, and lifted it into the air, you will probably discover that in fact it has some sort of feet that you can lower the next time when you want to disconnect the mower. If not, you can carefully leave it on wooden blocks or make some other arrangement so that you are able to leave the mower at a more convenient hight for re-attatchment later. Make sure though that it is stable, safe, and no mower parts (for example that rod that I assume you have that drives the actual sickle rod) are going to get bent.

A couple of other points: make very sure that everything is greased properly, and that the mower turns around smoothly before attempting to mow with it. Don't get off the tractor with the mower running

I hope this has been some help. It's highly probable that you will get some better advice from other people on this board, so don't simply rush out and follow mine! I have only mowed about eight acres myself!

Let me know how your mowing goes, and good luck! My mower needs a good handful of bolts and a welding rod for every couple of acres it mows!

Regards,

J-P

PS. There is lots of good advice about these tools over on the 'implement alley' board.