Rant -Hate to Do THIS

Took about three months with the head off, working it a couple milimeters at the flywheel and applying penetrating oil, but finally it broke loose. There was little damage to the liners. Little wear, no ridge. But, dang, I already have the head off...

Got busy on the job, and never at home, no time, and there it sat in my enclosed trailer for nearly two years. I now have to move to another state, and it has to come out of the trailer for outside storage.

Just don"t have time to tear it down, do it right, the machine shop, liners out and in, etc. Might need a new clutch, likely many more new parts. Definitely will rebuild the injectors at rebuild. I definely have more important things right now.

But for now, gotta put it together. It might run good. Might not run at all.

I can"t move with it in pieces. Think it will take half a day to put it back together and either get it running or leave it. The last Dexta I did took a couple of weeks waiting on machine work, parts. I don"t have that time.
Got the new rebuild kit. Just no time.

Rant. Hate doing this.

Wayne

The hose from breather to intake popped a hole on this THROTTLE-UP. I just jerked the torn pipe off. I used a thick piece of cardboard I had placed on my seat and smothered the engine down. Smoke was not black and oil smelling. Oil level was the same after several runs.

QUESTION: On the super dexta (62) with the manual Simms injector pump, does the air filter aid to throttle the engine? I could throttle it down with the card-board. Do I have a defective injector pump, or will it always throttle up if the air is not balanced with the filter?

It is not oil smoke, its fuel being burned. The engine heated up pretty fast.

Not a lot of time each run attempt to analyse this. Guess I first need to know if the air induction throttles it up? I know on my 59 with Pneumatic governor, it does, but there is a butterfly in the intake. There is not one on this engine.
It runs. Compression does not seem to be an issue. When you can pull it a few feet, pop the clutch, compression is there. Any ideas?
Wayne
Wayne

Got it running right NOW, and idling nice.

About four years ago, I bought this tractor sight unseen for $420, thinking it was good for parts. When I first saw it, I was shocked at the good condition.

Yesterday, I decided that doing it right, and putting in that rebuild kit was too much time, which simply I do not have. Plus I needed it together to park it outside. Got other projects to do before moving.

The tractor charges, the charge light works, starter works, temperature gage works. The horn even works. Has the DAR remote kit. Need a key for the switch (used a small screwdriver).

This tractor has a working emergency brake. Transmission is fairly tight. Double clutch and diff lock works.

5600 hours on tach, with no tach cable. How many more hours? The engine has not been rebuilt yet or the mechanic was a perfectionist. I'm leaning toward this being about those many hours above.

Tractor had been used for orchard work. Oh, yeah the FNH dealer wanted $65 for that air induction hose, for back-order. Ouch. Stopped at a part store, bought a similar shaped auto hose and used it.

Who knows how long it will run now?

It'll be parked outside for now. Tomorrow, I buy a battery, and change a few fluids.

Most times, the problems cost more to fix.
I was lucky on this one. Really. Wayne

Potential Problems. The first problem comes with using the wrong weight oil. (Have clean cannister and 15W40) Use of oil that is too light will cause the oil to be drawn beyond the filter and into the engine. Use of oil that is too heavy will not allow the oil to be drawn up far enough and much of the air cleaning surface area ends up being unused. Manufacturer owner manuals always show the oil weight that is designed for the system. Engineering of the system (we hope) will have picked just the right weight for the size of the cannister, cup, and vacuum pressure. The second problem comes when the cup is not cleaned regularly. Manuals always recommend daily refilling of the cup and suggest even more frequent cleanings under dusty conditions. The oil may look clean in the cup but after a few hours of running but it has trapped a significant quantity of small particles many of which will be drawn back up into the cleaning surfaces. When the particles-to-oil ratio reaches a certain level, the dirt will begin to hang on (or "sludge up") on the cleaning surfaces. Eventually, instead of just clean air being sucked into the intake, you have chunks of dirt and sludge going with it. Obviously this can be quickly damaging to the engine. If your cannister is filled with sludge, clean it out before using it or it could do more harm than good. The last problem is with radically altered machines. The oil bath is engineered for the stock engine. Radical changes to the engine mandate changes to the air cleaning system. Care should also be exercised if replacing your oil bath filter. The replacement should be similar in size and engineered capacity to the original."

So there is a relation ship to that pipe- vacuum to cleaning the air, but will it run wide open without that pipe"

Wayne