FMD - water in engine oil

I"ve asked here previously about the running characterictics of a Fordson Major. The idle running somehow improved by itself but when I test drove it I noticed that there is a certain rpm range where the engine hunts under light load (going up not a very steep hill). It happened when the engine was running about 1200 rpm. Not elsewhere. What could cause this? Someone told me that some Majors run unevenly because the governor diaphragm has been stretched over time???

Anyway right after that I noticed water in the engine oil so I had to give up further testing of that. I drained the oil put the plug back in and let it be for some 20 minutes. There was again some water in the sump when I opened the plug. Then I drained the radiator but not the engine block. I figured out that now the water level was below the head gasket but above the cylinder liners so I would be able to tell where the leak is. Again I put the plug in and waited 20 mins or so. There was no water in the sump. I did this test again the following day with same results. I"m going to do this test again with some pressure applied to the system next weekend. If I"m correct the leak is in head gasket. There were no pressure build up or oil in the cooling system at any point. So it must be a water port leaking in the oil passage, am I right? The head gasket is new. What we did wrong? Could it have been wrong type of gasket? The local dealer provided only one type of gasket for all Majors. Any advise? We are going to take the head off when we have time for it.

The head is not likely to warp however much you mistreat it. The problem that requires the gasket surface to be refaced is grooves worn where the liners fit onto the head surface.

It might be an idea to drop the sump and pressureise the radiator to see if the water is leaking around a liner rather than remove the head again if you have just replaced it.

Think you will find that the hunting will go away as you use it more. If you have any hard work you will find it would improve the way she runs.

My Super came out of an orchard where it had stood for 15 years. I have done nothing to her yet other than got her running to see if she was worth doing. The engine ran awful and smoked like a steam train under load. A couple of days on a plough and rotovator blew all the cobwebs away and she pulls perfectly. Still a long way to go on tinwork though.

Also, I typically put a thin layer of gasket shelac around the water ports for insurance. Makes gasket removal "fun", but I think it seals better.

Final thought is that either the head or the block could be cracked. I do hope it is just a loose bolt or defective gasket!

jb

The head was not machined when it was off. There was nothing wrong with it (as far as we could tell). The head bolts were tightened to the correct spec. The engine was run once (to hot) then it sat for 4 years before it was started again. The bolts were never retightened. We thought we could do this later. Could this be the problem? How soon the bolts have to be tightened again after the first installation of the head?

Usually, an engine is run in to heat it up and while hot, the bolts are retorqued. I have never even heard of one sitting for 4 years between first run and tightening the bolts!

Not that it really matters much now. Once a leak starts, it is real real hard to make it quite without a new gasket. (I would still try, what have you got to lose?)

On the head, if it was not checked for deck flatness 4 years ago, you should do it when (if) you change the gasket. It isn't hard, but you need a good straight edge longer than the corner to corner length. Clean the gasket surface, not just poke at it, really get EVERY THING off. When clean, put the straight edge corner to corner and look for any gap. (Back light with a bright flashlight) Measure if you find one. 2-3 thousanths are ok. Anything 5 and over gets the head cut. But that's just me, the manual should have the Ford spec.

Good luck!
jb