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Coolant Change

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Fred T. Hart Jr

03-20-2008 17:48:21

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I have a 1957 TO-35 and need to change coolant this spring, not changed it in a couple of years.

Question: As it has an 50 year old coolant system that is currently not leaking and in good repair I do not want to upset the apple cart.

1. Do I just drain system then recharge with new coolant?
2. Do I use sometype of system cleaner, let tractor come up to temp then flush system?

I would like to add a water pump lube additive if there is one as I have a great deal of respect for little Fergy water pump. Also, the radiator cap has never been replaced to my knowledge, should I invest in one, if so what pressue #'s cap would I buy?

Any suggestions?

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Bob (Aust)

03-22-2008 05:19:25

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Re: Coolant Change in reply to Fred T. Hart Jr., 03-20-2008 17:48:21

The old radiator guy that overhauled the radiator on my TEA20 told me:

The recommended radiator cap for my TEA20 is 4 pounds, 7 pounds for heavy work.

Bob in Oz

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Lance J.

03-21-2008 13:36:12

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Re: Coolant Change in reply to Fred T. Hart Jr., 03-20-2008 17:48:21

Fred-
You are absolutely right about needing to change the coolant. It prevents alot of expensive problems down the road. Personally, I prefer to change the coolant in all my water cooled engines annually, using a 60/40 ratio of new green coolant and water, with no additives. That would be my recommendation to you, but the product Jeff recommended would be ok too. I would definately not use any kind of cooling system sealer products in an old machine such as this. Coolant passages which are partially clogged could become fully clogged, and your thermostat could become stuck open or closed.

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Jeff-oh

03-21-2008 05:52:06

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Re: Coolant Change in reply to Fred T. Hart Jr., 03-20-2008 17:48:21

Gunk makes this product...
11OZ WATER PUMP LUBE Radiator Specialty Model: C1012 Do it Best SKU: 576646

If your collent is still clean and has good low feeze temp rating. You could just add a Rust inhibitor to the existing fluid.

Flushing the fluid helps get the suspended particles and particles setteled in the bottom of the radiator out.

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TexMac

03-20-2008 21:44:00

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Re: Coolant Change in reply to Fred T. Hart Jr., 03-20-2008 17:48:21

The best way not to "upset the apple cart" is to do as little as possible if your system is functioning properly. I do believe that the corrosion inhibitors go south after a while. I would just warm it up enough to open the thermostat, drain it and replace with a 50/50 mix of new coolant and distilled water, wipe the cap gasket clean and if it is not falling apart, put it back on and enjoy my tractor.

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Fred T. Hart Jr.

03-21-2008 17:15:03

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Re: Coolant Change in reply to TexMac, 03-20-2008 21:44:00

Thanks for the tips,

as soon as it warms up a little will warm up motor to open thermostat and drain system,

Then fill with 50/50 green coolant and distilled water.

May wait on use of any additives.

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Jerry/MT

03-20-2008 18:07:01

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Re: Coolant Change in reply to Fred T. Hart Jr., 03-20-2008 17:48:21

Is there any indication that your cooling system is not functioning properly? If not, why waste the money on something that isn"t necessary?

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Fred T. Hart Jr.

03-22-2008 04:40:28

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Re: Coolant Change in reply to Jerry/MT, 03-20-2008 18:07:01

Jerry,

after a few years:

I thought that the coolant would lose its anti rust and pump lube propteries.

Big chance: Turning drain cocks on radiator and engine block, they could brake or start leaking.

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Jerry/MT

03-22-2008 14:27:54

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Re: Coolant Change in reply to Fred T. Hart Jr., 03-22-2008 04:40:28

By all means change your coolant or add anti-rust and waterpump lube. Unless you see signs of crud or you have an overheat problem that"s not explained by a clogged air side on the rad, a bad thermostat, loose water pump belt, bad timing, too lean a/f mixture, or collapsed pump inlet hose, I"d just change the coolant.

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