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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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Conn Rod bearing inserts.

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Bruce(OR)

01-18-2008 19:32:17




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Howdy one and all...
Got the Fergie "20 going together and got to the rod caps which were numbered by the last person who took the engine apart. I noticed some of them are numbered so the securing tabs on the bearing inserts are on the same side with each other (Conn rod and cap) and some are aligned on opposing sides. Which is correct? The securing tabs on the bearing inserts are aligned on opposing or the same side?
Thanks in advance!
Bruce(OR)

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Hal Hadaller

01-19-2008 21:07:29




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 Re: Conn Rod bearing inserts. in reply to Bruce(OR), 01-18-2008 19:32:17  
Everyone missed the point here on the rods. What really counts is that the small spray hole in the rod journal point away from the camshaft side to help lubricate the cylinder wall. Windage of the crankshaft lubricates the other side.

I have factory number markings on my rods and caps. The shell index end up on the oposite side of each other when the numbers are together. I believe this makes shure that the shells do not slip from the centered position. I jsut installed mine yesterday.

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gshadel

01-19-2008 08:15:08




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 Re: Conn Rod bearing inserts. in reply to Bruce(OR), 01-18-2008 19:32:17  
Bruce, the Fergy TO 20/30 manual says , in reference to installing the caps, "...the notches for the tongues of the liners must be on opposite sides of the crankshaft"

George



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Gerald J.

01-18-2008 19:49:34




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 Re: Conn Rod bearing inserts. in reply to Bruce(OR), 01-18-2008 19:32:17  
Which ever way makes the hole round. There will probably be a detectable offset when backwards.

Gerald J.



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Bruce(OR)

01-18-2008 21:17:45




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 Re: Conn Rod bearing inserts. in reply to Gerald J., 01-18-2008 19:49:34  
I just went out and checked that aspect. There is no difference with the direction of the rod cap. The bearing inserts are indexed same side #1 and 2. #3 rod has the bearing inserts indexed on opposite sides and the plastigage was not happy with that. It measured out near roadkill flat to undisturbed at the other end. The numbers that have been stamped into the conn rod and cap all line up. I have not yet checked #4. I feel a monetary pain coming on. Should the bearing insert tabs be on the same or opposite sides?

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Gerald J.

01-19-2008 07:04:04




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 Re: Conn Rod bearing inserts. in reply to Bruce(OR), 01-18-2008 21:17:45  
The data I have is for the Z-134 and Z-145 as used in the MF-135. But Continental engines.

My I&T manual says, "When installing new bearing shells, make sure that the projection engages the milled slot in rod and cap and that rod and cap correlation marks are in rgister... Correlation marks should be on camshaft side of block when rods are installed."

The parts book from MF shows the notches of rod and cap are on the same side.

Turn that #3 rod cap and it may make a more even impression on the plastigage. If not, the cap and rod might be rebored in a machine shop, though I've seen a rod rebored that wasn't round and didn't help make a quiet running engine.

Gerald J.

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Bruce(OR)

01-19-2008 07:43:46




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 Re: Conn Rod bearing inserts. in reply to Gerald J., 01-19-2008 07:04:04  
I had an inclination a rod boring might be in the future. Like you said, spin the cap around and try the plastigage again. Whoever punched numbers on the caps missed. Now to see if they are pointing at the cam.
Thanks for the info!
Bruce(OR)



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Bruce(OR)

01-19-2008 15:15:27




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 Thank you!! gshadel and Gerald J. in reply to Bruce(OR), 01-19-2008 07:43:46  
After removing my head from my posterior I realized, with your great assistance, that not one, but all the connecting rods were installed backwards. There is something to be said about consistency. Now to pull the center main and ensure that it also is not installed "Bass-Ackwards" and then to grind down a screwdriver to stuff in the rear main packing string. Thank you once again for your kind assistance! P.S. All the numbers line up on the caps & rods.

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Gerald J.

01-19-2008 18:45:55




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 Re: Thank you!! gshadel and Gerald J. in reply to Bruce(OR), 01-19-2008 15:15:27  
The rods and the crankshaft should turn fairly freely when its assembled right. VW manuals used to require a rod (without piston) would fall from horizontal under its own weight. Not necessarily fall fast but should fall. If the caps are wrong or the clearance too small that won't happen.

Gerald J.



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Bruce(OR)

01-19-2008 20:25:15




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 Re: Thank you!! gshadel and Gerald J. in reply to Gerald J., 01-19-2008 18:45:55  
This ain't quite an air cooled VW with wider clearances for the excessive heat but it does rotate easily enough especially considering it is being built inside a tent with 32+/- degree temps outside and the prelube goo does not like to flow too goood at these temps. Looks like I might spin it over initially without sparkplugs to get oil pressure first.



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Gerald J.

01-19-2008 20:44:18




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 Re: Thank you!! gshadel and Gerald J. in reply to Bruce(OR), 01-19-2008 20:25:15  
Building oil pressure is always a great idea.

There is some evidence that most of an engine's wear is during starting before the oil pressure gets up and there are schemes like storing oil at pressure in a tank and releasing that to the lubrication system or using an electric auxiliary oil pump to bring up pressure. It would be handy to apply that pressurized oil in a T at the block tap for the oil pressure gauge.

Gerald J.

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