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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum

DrawBar Problems

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Barry from Stir

12-02-2007 05:55:50

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Morning Everyone, I havent posted in a while and I hope all my tractor buddy"s are keeping well. I have a 1952 TEA-2085 and it DOES NOT have a drawbar. When I tow a trailer I have to hook it up to the bar that connects between the 3-point hitch arms. I use a 1 7/8 ball. My problem is that this bar rolls and the trailer comes un-hitched. If I remember right I think I seen a remedy on this site. Is there any thing I can make or buy to prevent this in the future. Didnt I see a pin that you can make to insert into the bar and hook to one of the 3-point hitch arms to prevent this bar from rolling? I hope I have made it clear to everyone. Its snowing like all get out here in Ontario this morning. Great to read all the posts here over the months. Stay well everyone,,,,, ,,Barry

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John (UK)

12-04-2007 08:36:39

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Re: DrawBar Problems in reply to Barry from Stirling, 12-02-2007 05:55:50

Someone makes something for that problem, but you could make something yourself quite easily. You need a plate one at the top of the drawbar and one underneath, they should both run out to one of the lower links and again one should be over the top and one underneath. When these are clamped up they prevent the drawbar from rotating. I will try to send you a picture if I can find it....John

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gshadel

12-04-2007 09:18:27

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Re: DrawBar Problems in reply to Jeff-oh, 12-04-2007 07:51:25

I've got one of these things from TSC. They work okay. I've seen several pics of homemade models of these in the gallery, search for drawbar stay, drawbar lock, drawbar attachment, etc. and you will find several pics.

George

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Boss Hog

12-03-2007 07:45:48

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Re: DrawBar Problems in reply to Barry from Stirling, 12-02-2007 05:55:50

Here"s a picture of one that my Uncle built for me from an old MF weight transfer hitch.

Sure is nice. I can back up to a trailer, pick it up, move it, then drop it without ever getting out of the tractor seat.

Gotta be careful of the jack, so ya don"t run it into the ground and bend it. Don"t ask me how I know.

(-:

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mark from the fort

12-02-2007 14:23:39

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Re: DrawBar Problems in reply to Barry from Stirling, 12-02-2007 05:55:50

Link
Interesting concept. I took a bent drawbar ($1.00) at an auction, welded a 2" square tube straight up the center, added tabs on both sides at the top (to attach upper link with pin).
and welded a square tube to the bottom, facing straight out away from tractor, and added my own reese style hitch. I also use a cheapy 3-in-1 hitch that has 3 size balls welded on three sides. THE BEST part is I welded a 1" know on the fourth side and I can just back up to ANY trailer on my property and hook the hitch with the knob and pick up and move trailer without getting off of tractor. Slick.
Look into this website, lots of neat additions to the basic 3 pt. hitch.
Mark

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mark from the fort

12-02-2007 14:18:42

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Re: DrawBar Problems in reply to Barry from Stirling, 12-02-2007 05:55:50

Link
The above link is quite interesting.
I actually took a bent drawbaw (as you are using) and welded a length of 2" by 2" square tubling straight up in the middle, and welded two tabs on the sides to hold the upperlink and pid.
I then welded a 6" piece of 2 1/2" (big enough for a reese type hitch to slide into) so it stuck straigt out the back. I bought a cheapy 3 ball hitch and welded a 1" bolt on the fourth side of the hitch and use it ALL the time. I have hooked chains around the any of the balls to pull LIGHT things (not stumps) but use the 1" post 90% of the time. I have several empty trailers all with different size balls----all my trailers have enough tongue weight, that I can back under the hitch with the post and light the hydraulics and pic up trailer and transport around property without ever getting off tractor--sounds lazy, but works slick.
If you have a ruined 3 pt. implement laying around, you could cut the basic 3 pt. triangle(including light arm posts and upper link holes) and weld on a similar looking set-up.
check out the website, many neat attachments to the basic 3 pt triangle. Good luck, Mark

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Kraeer

12-02-2007 19:54:16

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Re: DrawBar Problems in reply to mark from the fort, 12-02-2007 14:18:42

Hello,
I did something similar but I used 4" sq tubing welded in the shape of a t and capped the top off and put a 2 5/16 ball on it so I can move goose-neck trailers also. I wish I had used a receiver down low for the bumper pull trailers instead of the c channel. Have a great day Mark

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Andy Moncman

12-02-2007 08:25:50

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Re: DrawBar Problems in reply to Barry from Stirling, 12-02-2007 05:55:50

Barry,

Look in the tractor parts to the left, under misc. parts there is a drawbar lock listed for 27 dollars that prevents the rotation of the drawbar, but for another 50 dollar you can buy a swinging drawbar that you can mount under the rearend that is designed to pull trailers and wagons. I have one and I use it quite often. It only take a few minutes to mount the brackets and the drawbar can be remove easily when you are using 3 point implements.

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john[mo]

12-02-2007 06:15:24

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Re: DrawBar Problems in reply to Barry from Stirling, 12-02-2007 05:55:50

go to parts and type DRAWBAR LOCK in the search box. it will show you a bunch of them and maybe you could make your own after seeing a picture.

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ric1

12-02-2007 06:57:57

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Re: DrawBar Problems in reply to john[mo], 12-02-2007 06:15:24

myself i prefer the hitch that will bolt underneath your tractor just under the pto shaft if you look up under there you will see a bolt pattern this is where it bolts on and then a single bar slides in and locks in place with a large pin it is more stable than the drawbar hitch cost about $100 bucks but worth every penny of it. RICK

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steveormary

12-04-2007 21:39:46

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Re: DrawBar Problems in reply to ric1, 12-02-2007 06:57:57

I made a hitch to bolt up underneath.

steveormary

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