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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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Auxilliary Hydraulics

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Jim Duncan

10-25-2007 20:22:27




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I have a 1956 TO35 Deluxe. I am considering getting a two spool hydraulic lever so as to add auxilliary hydraulic capabilities to my tractor. Most hydraulic cylinders work using relatively low viscosity "hydraulic fluid." It would appear that my tractor is designed to use the same 80 - 90 weight gear oil that is found in the transmission, differential, and hydraulic lift system. My Farmall friends say that this is not possible. Could someone clarify this for me?

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John(UK)

10-26-2007 07:47:18




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 Re: Auxilliary Hydraulics in reply to Jim Duncan, 10-25-2007 20:22:27  
The hydraulic spool valves will work quite happily with the Hydraulic oil used in the TO35. Where the misconception comes from that it wont work is, are the SAE oil grades being mixed up? the 80 and 90 weight oils in the book, are not SAE80 and SAE90 they are the equivalent of SAE50 and SAE40, without complicating it too much. It is possible that your tractor does have the heavier SAE80 or 90 oil in the rear end but this is wrong, it should be similar in grade to the engine and that oil will flow through the spool valves easily. This has caused queries before and there are a lot of tractors filled with the wrong oil due to the operator reading the grading incorrectly. Also this heavier oil has a high sulphur content (just smell it) which is not good for the yellow metals(shims/spacers) in the Hydraulics and Diff. assy. and will cause them to corrode. If the tractor does have this type of oil it needs to be allowed to get the oil hot and then drain it, leave draining overnight to get most out. When filling it again, you can use a Multi-grade like 15W/40 or 30, if you live in a cold winter climate, as this remains more fluid when cold. If you use a spool valve that isn't attached to the Tractor in the normal position (on top of the Hydraulic lift cover, front right corner) then you will need to return the oil to the tractor, do NOT return the oil through the oil filler plug alongside the Transmission change levers or you will Pump the Hydraulics dry and overfill the Transmission which will possibly leak into the Clutch Housing and onto the Clutch. Put the return oil through one of the round side covers back into the Hydraulics. To provide power for the spool valve, put the Position Control lever on the FAST mark and move the Draft lever up the quadrant to the top, do not have both position and draft levers at the top of the quadrant. If you need more info on this email me...John

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John Hicks

11-30-2007 02:03:22




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 Re: Auxilliary Hydraulics in reply to John(UK), 10-26-2007 07:47:18  
Mr. John UK. I've just found this web site and forum and am new to the details of my tractor which is a TO 35 serial no SGM176249. The tractor is in very good condition overall but has accumulated a list of maintenance items that have me going through the whole machine with a mini restoration in progress. I have a IT shop manual MF14 and that is all the info I have to work with other than what im finding on this site. I'm being presumptious by listing the problems I have ,but would you give me some direction as to where i can get some good tech. advice on them. 1. I would like to know how and why the hydro controll levers are set up like they are? One lever is slow fast at the bottom end of controll yet up down at the upper end of controll... I dont understand. The other lever is draft. Im not an experienced farmer and dont understand that either. They both operate the same single spool controll valve. Now in addition to my confusion my tractor has lots of lift capability when it is first started but looses that capability when it warms up. Wont pick up a brush hog after warm up. This makes me go crazy trying to operate two levers to do one thing (up&down)and it still doesnt work right.

2.Governor?? I was recently mowing thick and thin grass in a pasture. In the begining when I hit a patch of thick grass the tractor would begin to bog down but would automatically apply more power and pull through it then when we got to thin grass it would speed up but automatically slow enging down to preset speed. Correct to this point. After about 30 minuates of this Something changed. It would not self govern and would not go back to idle even when the throttle lever was reduced. I had to miss adjust the linkage so as to manually shut down the carb throttle. upon later inspection the bumper spring adjusting screw (on the timing gear cover) was found finger loose. I screwed it in till I felt it hit something and a little more and locked jam nut. Seems to govern some but not like before and idle is very sensitive. 3.Numerous small problems, broken tachometer , cracked exhaust manifold etc.

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