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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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Autolite 386 vs 3116 on a TO-30/12V/Pertronix

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Jerry/MT

10-23-2007 19:07:57




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I replaced my Champion sparkplugs(don"t remember the number off hand, maybe D21"s)a few weeks ago with Autolite 386"s and ever since then I"ve had a miss at idle that wasn"t there before. No problem at normall running conditions or during accel.I have good metallic core wires and a 12 V system with a relatively new NAPA IC-14SB coil and a Pertronix ignition. No other change made except the plugs.
I think phil said he got better performance with Autolite 3116"s then with the 386"s and when I looked them up, I found that the 386 is a resistor plug and the 3116 is a non-resistor plug.
Anybody have this kind of problem before with Autolite 386"s?

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Lance J.

10-24-2007 06:52:16




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 Re: Autolite 386 vs 3116 on a TO-30/12V/Pertronix in reply to Jerry/MT, 10-23-2007 19:07:57  
Jerry/MT asking for help? What is this world coming to? Seriously, friend, I had the same experience with my stock ignition "55 TO-35. I ordered all the tune up stuff from this site and discovered the included 386 plugs made the tractor sputter and miss at idle. I installed 3116"s, the number that was in there before and now it runs better than ever, at least during the time I"ve had it. By the way, I just joined FENA. Are you planning on writing any more articles ?

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Jerry/MT

10-24-2007 09:20:28




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 Re: Autolite 386 vs 3116 on a TO-30/12V/Pertronix in reply to Lance J., 10-24-2007 06:52:16  
There are thousands of years of real experience among the members of this forum and all of us benefit from that pool of experience, including myself. None of us know it all, but together we know a lot! I"m not too proud to ask for help.

Glad you joined FENA. A good organization. Jeff(OH) and I are talking about collaborating on an Ferguson Furrows article on the differences between TE"s and TO"s, if he can find the time from his busy work schedule.

Sounds like my problem is not uncommon but I"d like to understand why. Gotta" feeling the resistor aspect of the plug and quality issues with manufacturing might be ganging up to cause the problem.

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phil(va)

10-24-2007 06:45:39




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 Re: Autolite 386 vs 3116 on a TO-30/12V/Pertronix in reply to Jerry/MT, 10-23-2007 19:07:57  
I do have good luck with the 3116's in all my Fergies. I only use Champion in one vehicle, my 1967 Alfa Romeo Duetto, which doesn't want to run well on Autolites or even on the expensive imported plugs for some reason. I guess old vehicles just have their little quirks and once you find something that works it's best to stick with it. Maybe it's sorta like starting them: every one has its own way of starting best (the old 'hold your mouth right' issue).

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Jerry/MT

10-24-2007 09:11:37




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 Re: Autolite 386 vs 3116 on a TO-30/12V/Pertronix in reply to phil(va), 10-24-2007 06:45:39  
phil, you"re the one who suggested 3116 Autolites several month"s ago and I think I"ll have to give them a try. I did notice one of the Champs (#2 cylinder)had a some hard carbon deposits on the threaded portion but the electrode was clean. Could be the problem with that cylinder so I"ll check that.
I have a feeling that these plugs are low manufacturing volume and, since they"re resistor plugs may be more sensitive to quality control problems than non-resistors. They may be marginally good but don"t perform well in older engines. Another on e of life"s mysteries!

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Ed H.-OH

10-24-2007 04:57:10




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 Re: Autolite 386 vs 3116 on a TO-30/12V/Pertronix in reply to Jerry/MT, 10-23-2007 19:07:57  
Jerry, Hello, My to35 has a similer problem, It's 12 volt neg. grnd. with petronix ign. I think it has autolite plugs but i will have to look as they have been in it for 20+ years. It runs and starts great, but at a low idle you can hear it spark in the dis. If you let it go long enough it will burn down through the rotor to the shaft and quit. I have to change the rotor to get it running again. If i keep the rpm up a little it doesn't short and the rotor holds up ok. It has a stock napa 12 resistored coil wired with the correct polarity. I'm at a loss as to why it does it and it's not a problem as rotors are about 2 bucks' and i carry a spare,but after hearing you're problem i'm wondering if changing the plug type might help. You are so good to help others, I hope i can help find the problem. Regards-ed

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Jerry/MT

10-24-2007 09:05:19




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 Re: Autolite 386 vs 3116 on a TO-30/12V/Pertronix in reply to Ed H.-OH, 10-24-2007 04:57:10  
Thanks for the input Ed. I have a gut feel there may be quality control issues on what I think might be limited production, "old type" plugs. It could be as some of the other posters say, some engines are just fussy about plugs but I don"t think that"s the case. The motor just knows spark power, and fuel/ air ratio and timing and compression. I think that every once in awhile they make a marginally good plug and it may be more critical with a resistor type plug where you take a hit in spark power from the git go. Just my thoughts on the subject.

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Ed H.-OH

10-24-2007 09:01:40




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 Re: Autolite 386 vs 3116 on a TO-30/12V/Pertronix in reply to Ed H.-OH, 10-24-2007 04:57:10  
Jerry, I checked my 35 and it's got autolite 388's in it. That's a resitored plug like the 386. When it had points it run good but poped and fluttered at idle. with the pertronix ign. it's burning out rotors like i said. I went down and ordered 4 autolite 3116's for it. I'll let you know if it helps-ed



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Jerry/MT

10-24-2007 09:27:55




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 Re: Autolite 386 vs 3116 on a TO-30/12V/Pertronix in reply to Ed H.-OH, 10-24-2007 09:01:40  
Ed, I"ll look forward to hearing your results with the 3116"s. Regarding your rotor problem, are you sure that your distributor shaft and bushing isn"t worn badly causing your shaft to wobble and scrape on the cap terminals? The Pertronix can hide this problem and minimize the effects of worn shaft/bushing since you"ve eliminated the points. My distributor went bad and I had points at the time and it ran like a three legged dog. Turns out the shaft was so wobbly I could have the points closed and when I pushed side to side on the shaft the points opened to 0.030" ! You may want to check yours.

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Ed H.-OH

10-24-2007 09:38:35




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 Re: Autolite 386 vs 3116 on a TO-30/12V/Pertronix in reply to Jerry/MT, 10-24-2007 09:27:55  
Jerry, Thanks for the idea,I will check it. It's 52 years old i guess it could be getting worn. Like you said we are all learning here. This is a great site.



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gshadel

10-24-2007 03:57:04




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 Re: Autolite 386 vs 3116 on a TO-30/12V/Pertronix in reply to Jerry/MT, 10-23-2007 19:07:57  
Jerry, Check your spark, make sure you have a FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK!


Just kidding there Jerry, everyone knows that's your standard line. I've been running D21's for a few years now & haven't had any prob's. I agree the non-resistors are probably the way to go, but with your sup'ed-up ignition system I wouldn't think it should matter much. There seem to be a lot of happy 386 users on the N forum. I've long noticed that older engines seem to be particular to what brand of plugs run best, maybe your TO is a Champion kind of engine.

George

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Jerry/MT

10-24-2007 08:57:33




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 Re: Autolite 386 vs 3116 on a TO-30/12V/Pertronix in reply to gshadel, 10-24-2007 03:57:04  
George, I know, the devil made you say it!
I knew that someone would say that when I asked for help.

I can clean the Champs up and reuse them but it just surprised me that this occured. Plug brand never made a difference to me before in any vehicle so it sorta" surprised me. phil(VA) told me he had better luck with 3116"s several months ago and I know most folks have no problems with 386"s. I know a lot of these plugs for old tractors are low volume sellers and I wonder if there are quality control issues with sdmall runs that don"t make the manufacturer too much money?

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TexMac

10-23-2007 20:57:37




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 Re: Autolite 386 vs 3116 on a TO-30/12V/Pertronix in reply to Jerry/MT, 10-23-2007 19:07:57  
Just my $.02, but I would not use an Autolite for a fishing weight. I have had NGK A6(1010) in my 12V TO30 for years and would not consider any US plug. Some things we have just forgotten how to make. Sad isn"t it?



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Jerry/MT

10-24-2007 13:55:59




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 Re: Autolite 386 vs 3116 on a TO-30/12V/Pertronix in reply to TexMac, 10-23-2007 20:57:37  
Thanks, Tex. I looked up that NGK A6 plug and it"s obsolete and replaced by NGK AB-6.

I"m sorry Autolites haven"t worked for you but I have had pretty good performance out of Autolites for years. I think that maybe these resistor plugs are a little trickier to make and for limited producton runs( These are pretty old designs that only a relatively few cutomers use.)the quality control system may be has some "escapes" and I have at least one of them.

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TexMac

10-24-2007 20:32:30




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 Re: Autolite 386 vs 3116 on a TO-30/12V/Pertronix in reply to Jerry/MT, 10-24-2007 13:55:59  
Jerry, I started finding those "escapes" about 30 years ago. Out of a set of 8, one would invariably be open internally. Since I had a scientific background, I could not accept a quality control system that allowed a 12% failure rate. Used Bosch for a while, then bought my first Japanese car. Over the years I converted everything to NGK or NippoDenso and have never seen a bad plug yet. They are in my Flathead V8, Allis B, TO30 among others. Cross references tend to be special order, but worth the effort. Even ran them in my Cadillac and Town Car when I had them.

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Jerry/MT

10-24-2007 21:01:53




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 Re: Autolite 386 vs 3116 on a TO-30/12V/Pertronix in reply to TexMac, 10-24-2007 20:32:30  
Thanks, Tex. I"ll add it to my list of potential solutions to this problem.



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