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Carb Radiator question 1948 TO-20

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Tim Kellogg

06-11-2007 18:41:32

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I am thinking of replacing my carb on my HF with either the new carb or the Zenith "upgrade". Any recommendations on which would be better?

Also, what PSI should my cooling system be at during normal operation?

Thanks
timothykellogg@yahoo.com

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Bill Brox

06-12-2007 14:00:00

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Re: Carb Radiator question 1948 TO-20 in reply to Tim Kellogg, 06-11-2007 18:41:32

Tell me about the "Zenith Upgrade"... where can that be bought ?

Bill

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Timothy Kellogg

06-12-2007 14:37:24

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Re: Carb Radiator question 1948 TO-20 in reply to Bill Brox, 06-12-2007 14:00:00

I found it right here on the ytmag.com website at>Link

I think I am going to try doing to following first:

1. boiling/sealing my gas tank (this thing was underwater and there was a lot of corrosion in my tank even before it went under).

2. Buying/rebuilding radiator, cap. Mine was holding no pressure before. Going to get that in good shape.

3. Testing/replacing thermostat

4. Saving my money from not buying carb and rebuilding with complete kit from ytmag if needed. Mine was leaking.

5. Check my timing and I hope this thing runs even better than it did before it went underwater.

I already changed fluids etc and was able to get it running, but I think I got some crud from my tank into carb along with heating up. Between those two, I think it would explain why I was seeing a leaking carb.

What started out as simply an effort to get by is quickly turning into an obsession to make this thing run like new. Next thing you know, I'll start restoring the darn thing.

Thanks
Tim K.

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gshadel

06-12-2007 04:59:43

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Re: Carb Radiator question 1948 TO-20 in reply to Tim Kellogg, 06-11-2007 18:41:32

I agree with Jerry, Unless your carb is physically damaged, like cracked mounting flange, etc., your carb is cleanable, rebuildable. All the typical wear components can be replaced for a whole lot cheaper than buying a whole new carb. You are much better off to rebuild. Also, be certain your carb will fix your problem. I can't tell you how many times I've heard of guys dropping the big $$$ to replace a "faulty" carb, only to have the same problem with the new carb, that turned out to really be an ignition, timing, valve, or fuel flow problem.

Jerry's thinking of a TO30 for the radiator cap pressure. 7 psi for TO30, 4 PSI for TO20. Before I knew better, I ran my TO20 for several years with a 7 psi cap, never had a problem. You can get 4 psi caps at most any local auto parts store.

George

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Jerry/MT

06-12-2007 09:37:11

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Re: Carb Radiator question 1948 TO-20 in reply to gshadel, 06-12-2007 04:59:43

Hi George, I believe John(UK) has indicated that all the Ferguson's went over to a 7 psi cap years ago. That's where I got my number. The 7 psi cap gives you more margin against boiling and the radiator is over designed enough to handle the increased pressure. These Continental blocks need all the temperature margin they can get 'cuz they don't handle overheating well!

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gshadel

06-12-2007 14:12:25

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Re: Carb Radiator question 1948 TO-20 in reply to Jerry/MT, 06-12-2007 09:37:11

Hi Jerry, I was just regurgitating the numbers out of the manual. I agree the 7 psi cap is fine, like I said, I ran my TO-20 for years on a 7 psi cap. If the cooling system is up to par, a TO should vertually never test the relief of a 4 psi, or 7 psi cap. I run the crap out of my TO and have never seen it venting with my 4 psi cap. I know when my radiator needs chaff blown out when the temp. gauge climbs to ~2/3 way into the green zone.

I was reading one of your posts the other day and got a nice giggle, in addition to your somewhat famous "fat bluish -white spark" description, you threw-in "like lightning bolts", or something like that. Lightning bolts indeed! That is basically what an ignition spark is.. a man-made lightning bolt... a nice addition to your already polished characterization of what a "good" ignition spark should look like....I've never seen a weak yellow lightning bolt... they are always bluish-white.

George

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Jerry/MT

06-13-2007 09:45:33

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Re: Carb Radiator question 1948 TO-20 in reply to gshadel, 06-12-2007 14:12:25

Hi George! Yeah I agree with you and I don't normlly go against the advice in the Shop Manual(4 psi radiatr cap)but John(UK), who I believe worked for Ferguson in England, said that they changed over to all 7 psi caps in the field. Without looking in my steam tables, that's about a 233F boiling point, an addition 9F of margin over a 4 psi cap. You're wise to watch that temperature gauge while mowing. I have the feeling that a lot of these cracked blocks we see are due to guys mowing or haying and not watching the coolant temperature.Their radiators get block and the first thing they know their cap is venting and by then it's probably too late.

You can thank Mother Nature for the characterization of a spark. We had a thunder boomer and there were bluish-white lightning bolts striking all over. I used it because it gives a good visual reference for someone who's not sure what I mean mean when I say FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK.
Thanks for the comments.
Regards, Jerry

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Jerry/MT

06-11-2007 21:43:11

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Re: Carb Radiator question 1948 TO-20 in reply to Tim Kellogg, 06-11-2007 18:41:32

What's wrong with your existing M-S carb? They're pretty bulletproof and easy to rebuild. Gotta' get clean first though.
The pressure cap should be 7 psi for your cooling system.

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