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Unless you plow hard 500 hours a year, the added valve wear from no lead fuel won't be offset by the plug replacements caussed by the lead additive. And many lead additives aren't really that. Just some motor honey to catch your spending money. Modern gasolines wildly exceed the octane requirments of the vintage tractor engine. My MF-135 manual says only use good gasoline that doesn't ping. Says the Z-134 engine has a 6.6:1 compression ratio. Most vintage tractors run about 100 hours per oil change, though they also call for once or twice a year when you don't do all 100 in a year. More important is running the engine long enough and with a proper thermostat to get it hot enough to boil off the condensed water and combustion products that have slipped past the rings. The crankcase vent tube is open as it was on cars and trucks of the era. There is no valve, the PCV valve vents to the air intake so fumes get burned to reduce emissions. If you want to reduce emissions, you could plumb that tube to a filter at the air filter housing. The big problems are keeping that tube open when its exposed to dust, mud, and the home building instincts of muddaubers and wasps. The oilly fumes deter them a little but when parked for long periods they will build and block it. Then pressure can build inside the engine to force seal and gasket leaks. When you have maintenance time you might want to look at the rocker arm assembly to be sure the corks haven't rotted out of the ends of the rocker arm shaft taking oil pressure off the rocker arms which leads to rapid wear. The oil passage to that shaft is dependant on that shaft not twisting off the location pin and then shutting off the oil flow. The original owner's manual would answer these questions too and show how to use all the tractor's capabilities to your best advantage and safety. Gerald J.
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