Engine rebuilt but think the governor may be fault

If it runs longer, check the gas tank vent (generaly in the gas cap), the ignition coil, or the ignition condenser.

Gerald J.

Thank you. There's a mechanic in the next county who travels to work on-location. He has worked with this tractor before. I'll ask if would like to take another shot. In the meantime, the Ag-Science instructor has your replies to my question. We'll see.

Jim

You could have a problem with the primary ignition circuit or the fuel delivery. The first one is relatively easy to check. Start the tractor and when it dies. Pull the center wire out of the didtributor cap, hold it near(1/8"-1/4") a good ground and try a start. You should see a FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK. If you do then the primary ignition circuit is OK. If you don't you need to find out why. It could be improper points etting, corroded, burnt, or oily points, bad coil, bad ignition switch, corroded connections, dammaged wire, etc.

IF you have the requiste FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK, then check the fueldelivery by holding a suitable container under the carburetor,and with the tank valve wide open, remove the plug from the bottom of the carburetor( I'm presumeing you have a few gallons of gas in the tank.)The fuel should run out CONTINUOUSLY, like a cow peein' on a flat rock. If it dribbles, runs for a short time then stops, is intermitent, etc then you have a problem with th fuel delivery. These old machines were often parked in the back forty and all manner of crap and corruption can be found in the fuel tank and lines. If you don't have the gushing continuous fuel flow then your fuel delivery is not good.
There is a screeen on the fuel inlet elbow to the carb that catches the coarse stuff. Check that first. Then there is the sediment bowl. Above the sedimenent bowl there is a screen or a filter and finnaly there is the sube in the tank and maybe another screen around the sdupply tube that could be clogged. The fuel line could have a bend or kink that is clogged. The carburetor fuel bowl could be full of fine sediments and not allow the float vave to drop or the float valve can hung up.(The latter can sometimes be temporarily fixed with a sharp rap on the side of the carb with a block of wood.) the float valve could also be clogged. Your float could also be misadjusted.
Check the lines between the carb and the tank first. If you don't find the problem there. Then you'll have to remove the carb and check the flaot system and the fuel bowl.
One final comment. Since you are having to pull the choke to keep it running, if the spark is correct(FAT AND BLUISH-WHITE), the fuel flow is good, and the carb float valve functioning properly, you may have an air leak around the carb metering section causing the mixture to be too lean. That could be caused by an airleak around the throttle shaft, around the connect flange between the carb and the intake manifold and/or a leak between the intake manifold and the cylinder head. To check for that, CAREFULLY spray starting fluid around those areas with the engine running and listen for an rpm increase when you hit the leak.

Hope this helps.

You could have a problem with the primary ignition circuit or the fuel delivery. The first one is relatively easy to check. Start the tractor and when it dies. Pull the center wire out of the didtributor cap, hold it near(1/8"-1/4") a good ground and try a start. You should see a FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK. If you do then the primary ignition circuit is OK. If you don't you need to find out why. It could be improper points etting, corroded, burnt, or oily points, bad coil, bad ignition switch, corroded connections, dammaged wire, etc.

IF you have the requiste FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK, then check the fueldelivery by holding a suitable container under the carburetor,and with the tank valve wide open, remove the plug from the bottom of the carburetor( I'm presumeing you have a few gallons of gas in the tank.)The fuel should run out CONTINUOUSLY, like a cow peein' on a flat rock. If it dribbles, runs for a short time then stops, is intermitent, etc then you have a problem with th fuel delivery. These old machines were often parked in the back forty and all manner of crap and corruption can be found in the fuel tank and lines. If you don't have the gushing continuous fuel flow then your fuel delivery is not good.
There is a screeen on the fuel inlet elbow to the carb that catches the coarse stuff. Check that first. Then there is the sediment bowl. Above the sedimenent bowl there is a screen or a filter and finnaly there is the sube in the tank and maybe another screen around the sdupply tube that could be clogged. The fuel line could have a bend or kink that is clogged. The carburetor fuel bowl could be full of fine sediments and not allow the float vave to drop or the float valve can hung up.(The latter can sometimes be temporarily fixed with a sharp rap on the side of the carb with a block of wood.) the float valve could also be clogged. Your float could also be misadjusted.
Check the lines between the carb and the tank first. If you don't find the problem there. Then you'll have to remove the carb and check the flaot system and the fuel bowl.
One final comment. Since you are having to pull the choke to keep it running, if the spark is correct(FAT AND BLUISH-WHITE), the fuel flow is good, and the carb float valve functioning properly, you may have an air leak around the carb metering section causing the mixture to be too lean. That could be caised by an airleak around the hrottle shaft, around the connect flange between the carb and the intake manifold and/or a leak between the intake manifold and the cylinder head. To check for that, CAREFULLY spray staring fluis around those aerea with the engine running and listen for an rpm increase when you hit the leak.

Hope this helps.

Having to choke a carb would indicate a fuel delivery problem.

I have seen where folks have installed the throttle shaft wrong and the governor and is working the butterfly the wrong direction.

Or there is simply something wrong in the carb.