Excessive oil pressure on rebuilt TO-30

Thanks for all the help,
Darren

If that piston is stuck it will run the pressure up.

A steel rifle brush may be a bit rough for that cylinder bore but a fiber brush won't hurt. It might benefit from a few turns of a brake cylinder hone if you can find on small enough to fit. Find a wood dowel that is a tiny bit smaller than the bore. Cut a saw slot in the end of the dowel and slip in a piece of wet or dry paper. Adjust the size by how much sticks out and over laps. That will lap the bore smooth when turned.

The oil passage to the rocker arms surfaces under the rear pedestal. It wanders around the back of the head and you can't poke a wire through it. Be sure the pin of the rocker arm is in the notch or it will cut off flow to the rocker arm shaft. Be sure the corks are new or they will release the oil from oiling the rockers. I opened up that passage on my MF-135 (though its beginning to sound a bit dry again) by makeing a block with a 1/8" pipe thread aligned with the oil hole. Then I bolted it down in place of the rocker post and put in a shrader valve so I could apply air pressure with a tire chuck and not get all the air pressure to the passage. It took soaking with a good penetrating oil (Kroil) and blowing to get air down that hole.

Gerald J.

I've got the pan off right now and I have the cotter pin out of the oil pump relief valve. The little cap on the outside of the spring is being ornery, so I haven't gotten the spring and plunger out yet. I've been debating trying to clean that bore with a rifle bore brush chucked into a drill.

I DO have oil flow at the filter and gauge port, but none at the rocker arm. I turned it over with the starter to get about 20psi for a few seconds and I'm not seeing any oil around the rocker arm.

My diagram isn't very clear-- does the gauge port branch off of the bypass with the filter, or is that a separate port off of rear crank journal? I'm guessing it comes off of the bypass.

So, I'm thinking about pulling the head and making sure all the passages are cut in the headgasket and that they line up, then check that i'm getting oil flow from the block to the head. Anybody got a better idea? I wouldn't mind not pulling the head if i can help it.

Thanks, D

DON'T RUN IT--NONE--NOT AT ALL--PERIOD

Untill you get this fixed.
The openings through the engine will not allow 100 psi with the stock pump unless there is a MAJOR blockage some where.