Rusty..
The filtration process is that some of the oil coming from the center bearing passes thru the filter, and out into the crankcase. Only a small fraction of the entire oil flow is filtered via that route. The main purpose for the screen is to strain the oil from the crankcase into the oil suction. I don't know the Fram filter number. The NAPA number is 1107, I think the WIX number is 1107 also. It sounds like your strainer may have been in backwards if it came out before the filter (common mistake). The strainer goes in first, with the open end facing down. The filter goes into the strainer. Then the bottom plate. The gasket can be purchased at any AGCO/MF dealer, you can also probably order it thru any dealer that sells Sparex or Tisco parts. I would be suprised if a auto parts place would have it. Some guys make their own gasket, I like the store gaskets, they are nice and thick and seal nicely. The actual sealing face is the flat on the plate where the gasket sits, and the flat surface on the oil pan just around the rolled lip on the bottom of the pan... not the rolled lip itself. Make sure those flat areas are super clean and smooth. Any gooped-up or flaking paint in that area may affect your seal. I use a thin film of gasket goop between the rubber gasket, and the bottom plate... it's intended more to keep the gasket in place on the bottom plate, than to actually seal anything. The manual says to replace the gasket at every oil change. I only change that gasket every 2-3 oil changes, but I make sure I orient the plate facing the same direction it came off. The gasket does not set uniformly, one side may be compressed more than the other. Resist using gasketmaker goop between the oil pan, and the oil plate. It should not be necessary, and will just create a big headache at your next oil change. There should be a copper (plastic may due)washer on the bolt that holds the plate on the bottom of the pan. They wear out, common leak point. Those washers CAN be found at most auto parts places. George
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