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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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Brush Hog repair Question

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T

08-05-2006 16:11:00




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For the 3rd or 4th time now the bolts holding the gear box on my well used genaric brush hog have come loose. I have never been able to get the pan that holds the blades off. I am able to take off the bolt that holds the pan but unable to budge it. So in the past it has been nearly impossible to really torque the nuts on the bolts that hold the gear box.Do you guys have any suggestions on getting that pan off? I have to use a "come along" attached to the top of a basketball hoop pole to lift up the hog to work on it. Even that is a little risky. I may have to just haul it to a machine shop to have them properly get those bolts on. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Terry

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gshadel

08-06-2006 07:15:32




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 Re: Brush Hog repair Question in reply to T, 08-05-2006 16:11:00  
I had the exact same trouble many years back on B.hog.
After great frustration trying to get the stump jumper off, I ended-up cutting a hole in the stump jumper just big enough to get the appropriate sized socket thru the jumper, and onto the gearbox bolts. If I recall, I think I cut off one of the old chewed-up gearbox bolts first,then drilled a hole down thru the bolt hole & thru the stump jumper to line-up the hole, then turned the deck up and leaned against the barn, & cut a hole in the jumper by drilling out the corners and jig sawing the hole. It was easy to access all the gearbox bolts by just rotating the jumper around to line-up each gearbox bolt with the hole.
I ended-up cutting all the gearbox bolts off, they were really shot. Installed new grade 5 bolts with lock nuts and plenty of threadlocker. Have never had another problem.

I still have that hole in the jumper. I mow thru woods and continually clear wooded land to convert to pasture. I hit more than my share of stumps, saplings, etc. That ~1 1/4 " hole in the jumper has not caused any problems. I was a bit worried about throwing the jumper out of balance, but that has not been a problem either.

George

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T

08-06-2006 06:25:30




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 Re: Brush Hog repair Question in reply to T, 08-05-2006 16:11:00  
Thank you to both Jerry & Billy for your responses. Question to Jerry what is a Blue Flame wrench, I assume you are talking about heating up and useing a wrench? Next question what do I heat up the shaft or the pan, to help loosen? Thanks again Terry



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Jerry/MT

08-06-2006 17:30:05




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 Re: Brush Hog repair Question in reply to T, 08-06-2006 06:25:30  
Forgot the other half of your question. I'd heat the area of the stump jumper(pan) near place where the shaft comes through. heating and cooling sometimes help loosen these type of joints.



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Jerry/MT

08-06-2006 17:26:39




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 Re: Brush Hog repair Question in reply to T, 08-06-2006 06:25:30  
A Blue Flame Wrench is a cutting torch. You see these metaphors throughout these forums.



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Jerry/MT

08-05-2006 21:16:41




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 Re: Brush Hog repair Question in reply to T, 08-05-2006 16:11:00  
Have you tried the blue flame wrench to heat the area around where the shaft come through the stump jumper (pan)? You might be able to drill a couple of holes in it and make a puller out of bar stock and a big bolt and use that to remove it.

If you take it to a farm shop to have them take the pan off, you can torque the bolts yourself after applying some Loctite to them. Then assemble the stumpjumper with anti-sieze compund on it so if you have to you can remove it in the future.
That's about all I can offer. Good Luck.

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Billy NY

08-05-2006 21:11:01




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 Re: Brush Hog repair Question in reply to T, 08-05-2006 16:11:00  
I had that exact same problem on a Rhino SE-6. The gear box to deck bolts came loose, did not know how the stumpjumper pan came off either.

If it's a splined shaft, with a castellated (castle) nut on it, with some washers under it, and on the face of the shaft there may be a divot machined out for a puller, as mine is.

I looked at it and realized I could take a large bar, ( I used a manhole lid type bar maybe 5 foot long ) and pryed against the face of shaft, to see if I could lift the pan using the face of shaft as the fulcrum block, and it slid up no problem, I then lifted a little and shimmed a little until it freed up, the splines, not the shaft are tapered on this one. I had friend hold a wrench on the nuts deck side, while I tightenend them down from the inside, then used a little wicking grade loctite from above after I flipped it right side up, it seeped into the threads under the nut. You have to have a straight pick to pull this pan off it seems, if you tilt it while lifting, it seems to jam the works up a bit.

I took pictures of this apart, e-mail me your address, I'll send them to you, it might help if it's set up the same way.

Once I tightened those bolts and sharpened the blades, it seemed to be very well balanced, no more vibration when you first turn the pto on.

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