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Jerry/MT
05-23-2006 09:37:14
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Re: 51 TO-30 Starting Problems in reply to Will B, 05-23-2006 06:25:15
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Lets try to find out what the real problem is by a process of elimination. I'm presuming you have a 6 volt system. They have to be "right on the money" to have the engine run right.
First, check to make sure that your ignition system is up to snuff. Pull the high tension wire out of the center of the distributor cap, hold it near a good ground, turn the key on and try to start. (Alternately, you can pull a wire off a spark plug, put a paper clip or a bent piece of wire in the bootand do the same test.)If you get a fat bluish spark, your points, coil, and primary wiring are OK. If you get a thin yellowish or orangey spark, there is most likely a problem in the primary igniton system (points, coil, bad connection, bad condensor, bad key switch, etc). If you get a good spark with a cold engine, operate the tractor till it runs ratty and reconduct the spark test. Some time an overheated coil or a bad condensor or a bad key switch will run for a while and then act up.While you have it running, check the ignition timing and the advance mechanism.
If your ignition system checks out under both of the above tests, then check the fuel system. You've all ready checked the fuel delivery system and fixed that problem. Did you check to make sure that the fuel is delivered to the carburetor by opening the tank valve, holding a container under the carb and removing the drain plug? The gas should flow CONTINUOUSLY, "like a cow peein' on a flat rock", for at least 30 seconds. If it doesn't then either the "secret filter" in the carb fuel elbow is clogged or the float valve is restricted. Also check to make sure the vent hole in the gas cap on the tank is not plugged. That can restrict the fuel flow after a period of operation by causing a vacuum to occur in the fuel tank. If all this checks out. Then start the engine and let it warm up and using ether or an unlit proprane torch, VERY CAREFULLY, squirt the ether around the carb throttle shaft, the carb to intake manifold connection, and around the intake to head connection points while the engine is idling. If the engine speeds up, then you have an air leak around the carb metering section that's leaning out the mixture. Than can cause overheating and can cause your valves to burn eventually. You need to address that problem by eleiminating the leak.
You said you had a problem that seemed like overheating while brush hogging. Make sure that your radiator is free of chaff. That can cause you to overheat. Also check to make sure that your power jet adjustment (the big screw on the fuel bowl at the front of the carb) is NO LESS than one turn out from full closed on the carb. That can also cause a lean condition that can contribute to overheating. Conduct all these checks, wite down the results on in a note bok or on piece of paper and then sit down and evaluate the situation. If yo ignition system checks out, the fuel delivery checks out, you have no air leaks down stream of the carb metering system, then a rebuild of the carb is in order. The Marvel-Schebler carb is about as simple of a carb as you can find, but dirt is the biggest enemy of any carburetor and you had a dirty fuel tank so it's possible that you carb is dirty. (There can be so much fine silt in the fuel bowl that the float won't drop and the engine can run at low power but not at high power because the fuel bowl can't fill.)there is an excellent aricle in the Research & Info Section (under Articles) to the left about rebuilding an M-S carb that's an excellent resource.
If you need help or have any questions get back here. ALso come back and tell us what you found. We all learn fom solving these problems. And don't get frustrated (easier said, then done!). You're not working on the Space Shuttle! By methodically going through each engine system and eliminating possible causes, you can find and solve the problem.
Hope this helps you.
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