I am not a Ploughman, part 3

Thus, on Monday, I attached my 2-bottom Dearborn plow. I dropped the plow in and only the right hand plow was cutting. I figured it was just the first pass. I came around again, put the wheel in the “trench” and still only the right hand side cut.

I adjusted the level to raise the right and lower the left bottom. This helped; however, the left bottom never really cut all that well. After, 10 or so passes I drove back to the barn.

Inspecting my work, and I made a mess of it. I had a furrow and about 14” of undisturbed land then another furrow. It is a severe wash boarding affect. I think this has occurred because only one of the two bottoms were cutting. Your Thoughts? Also, is it better to plow faster or slower? I tried both 1st and 2nd gear. I could not tell which was better. I though faster may help throw the dirt better, but it is harder on the tractor.

On the plus side, my little TE-20 did great. When I dropped the plow that 57-year-old engine just stepped right up and purred.

Upon, thinking about why only the front right bottom was cutting, I think I had the forward to aft angle too high. The first time I tried to plow the plow just skidded along the soil, never cutting in. This time I really shortened my top ling to get the points to dig in. I may have gone too short and this is why the back (left) never really cut. It was too high both left to right and fwd to aft.

Any tips on how to set-up and adjust a plow? I am sure one demo from someone who knows what they are doing is worth 10,000 words. But this is all I have right now… Unless, is anyone out there near the Cincinnati, Oh area available for a plowing demo??? I’ll bring lunch.

Keep ‘em chugging
Jeff

• Emerald Farm

Thank again.

PLOWING WITH TO-20
Attach the plow to the 3 point hitch. Drive the tractor's left rear wheel up on a 6 inch block. Use the right hand leveling crank and the top link screw adjustment to level the plow share and the land slide with the ground. Do this on a good level spot or on a level slab of concrete. Pull a string from the back of the land slide to the front of the tractor or further out in front of the tractor and make a straight line beside the land slide to the front of the tractor. The line should angle slightly to the right front wheel of the tractor about 6 inches more than the left. This is to assure that the plow doesn't try to turn the tractor right when the plow comes in contact with the earth. Think of the plow acting as a rudder would on a boat. The way to adjust the angle of the landslide to the left is to loosen the bolts that hold the drawbar that goes across the plow and attaches to the two lower links and twist it in it's cradle until the plow is pointing in the right direction (string pointing to the right at the front of tractor). The plow will have to be raised to let it more easily be moved. Some plows have adjusting bolts that help in turning the plow and in securing it in position. This is just a preliminary adjustment and when in the field it may be necessary to tilt the plow slightly forward by shortening the top link etc. Good luck and let me know how you do.
To prevent the plow from trying to turn the tractor you need to adjust the draw bar. Think of the plow as the rudder on a boat. If you want the boat to turn left you turn the rudder left. The same is true of the plow. The drawbar has an offset on the right side with the offset turned down. To turn the plow as a rudder to the left to make the tractor stop turning right when the plow is engaged loosen the bolt that secure the drawbar to the plow. Turn the drawbar counterclockwise looking at the right end (offset).in order to make the tail of the plow turn to the left. It only takes little to turn the plow tail a lot but do it so that the tail of the plow is moved about 6" to the left. Retighten the bolts that secure the drawbar to the plow.
Put the little lever that is under the seat in the down (draft control position) Move the lift lever till the plow drops to the ground. Advance the tractor and gradually move the lever more down till the plow is at the depth you wish to plow and then set the lever at this point with the stop to make it stay there.
A flat bottom plow should be set so that when the plow opens the furrow the bottom of the furrow will be flat. Hence" flat bottom plow"! If the plow will not go in the ground with the plow set flat, get new plow points.
When using a 14" flat bottom plow the distance from the inside edge of the right rear wheel should be 14" from the most forward point of the first plow. Or 14" from the landside of the first plow to the inside of the RR tire. The tires of the tractor should have water in them or wheel weights.

Phil(WA)

Jeff

We used 2nd gear for plowing and run engine at about 3/5ths throttle. This was with the TE-20,TO-30 and a 641 Ford with the 4speed tranny.

As to how to set up the plow can you get a manual for the plow? I could do it if I was there but cant put it in writting.

Just be careful. steveormary

I have heard that if you drive the tractor up on 2 8" blocks to simulate the tractor with the right wheels in a furrow and then adjust the plow level to the ground it will be close.

Bottom line, I had fun trying, I will make some adjustments and try again.

Jeff

Find a flat surface. Park the tractor and plough on it. Adjust the plough until it sits flat. That's your starting point and your setting for the first run. After the first run drop your wheels into the "trough" and adjust the right hand control on the 3 pt hitch until the plough is again level. A little goes a long way here.

Then try again. I find it's best to have another tractor on a disk to hide the evidence from more experienced observers as soon as the day's ploughing is completed.

Hey, we may make a mess, but the plants will still grow.

Don't under any conditions take off the top link. It is all that keeps the tractor from flipping over backwards if you hit an obstruction. A chain doesn't push well.

The first time I tried it was near 37 Deg C (99F) and The plough just skidded along the ground. I had the top link so long (set for my mower) that the leading edge of the shares were pointed up and did not cut in. I didn't remove my OCR and it was hitting the coulter support. Between the heat, and general failure to do any thing I gave up.

Over the weekend, I tried again. This time I over compensated on the top link. I shortened nearly as far as I could. This had the desired effect of getting the leading share to cut in but it lifted the aft share off the ground.

Maybe next time it will be just right... Thanks to this board I think I have the knowledge, I let you all know if it works.