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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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Brush hogging for dummies

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RogerL

07-14-2005 00:05:01




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I put the "new" TO-35 through its paces today, rotary mowing about four of our acres. I did an OK job, but I can't help feeling like I'm not doing this quite right. Since I've never done this before, does anyone have a pointer to a web site, or care to share their secrets on using a Woods 5' 3-pt mower on one of our machines? Even rudimentary hints on the setup of the rear wheel, proper height of the front lifting arm attachment points, height of the rear wheel, length of the upper link, position of hydraulics (if any), etc.

I know these will vary but I could really use a good starting point.

On a related note, I overheated the engine a bit (though the gauge didn't show it, need to check that) in some thick going. Note to myself: After plowing through a few acres of seedy grass and weeds, check to see if the radiator is completey blocked by seeds. Doh!

Also, governor adjustment or rebuilding is on my list, as it doesn't seem to work.

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steve_ne

07-15-2005 07:59:53




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 Re: Brush hogging for dummies in reply to RogerL, 07-14-2005 00:05:01  
Don't let it grow up so tall. Mow twice rather than really hard once. cut half strips. Sharpen blades (big difference) Check to see if its cutting or just wipping the grass. If really tall stuff mow in reverse area that are thicker.



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John (UK)

07-16-2005 11:26:12




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 Re: Brush hogging for dummies in reply to steve_ne, 07-15-2005 07:59:53  
Good information is that, I hope they take heed.



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RogerL

07-14-2005 12:02:54




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 Re: Brush hogging for dummies in reply to RogerL, 07-14-2005 00:05:01  
Thanks, all! Exactly the information I needed.

Re: Stabilizer bars, I don't have a set, and looking at the tractor, it looks like the left side no longer has the hookup for them (if that's what is there on the right side, on the bottom of the fender attachment bolts). Guess I'll need to get a set and figure out what parts I'm missing there.

I found in our bumpy field that 1st high about half throttle was a comfortable speed. I still have five acres left to do, so I'll be giving Matt et al's hints a tryout tomorrow.

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John (UK)

07-16-2005 11:29:01




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 Re: Brush hogging for dummies in reply to RogerL, 07-14-2005 12:02:54  
You are not running the mower fast enough, it needs to run at 545rpm on the pto, it should show that on your tachometer on the dash, if you don't have one then run the engine at about 3/4 throttle and adjust forward speed on your gearbox.



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gshadel

07-14-2005 07:39:02




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 Re: Brush hogging for dummies in reply to RogerL, 07-14-2005 00:05:01  
Roger, set-up your B Hog the way Matt describes below. He pretty much exactly describes what I do also. Once you get your rear wheel height set the first time, all you need to do after that is just hook-up, adjust your top link to set the front height, real easy and fast hook-up. You won't need chains or position controller and will get consistent height every time. An added benefit - your fergy Draft Control will automatically raise and lower your hog slightly when you run thru dips, go up hills, etc. which pushes-up on the rear wheel, putting pressure on your top link, just the way it's suppose to. This will help prevent the hog from digging-in in the back and maintain level cutting on unever terrain.
I used to use limiter chains for setting my hog height. Thanks Marllowe and his many posts on this subject for converting me. I still have the chains, haven't used them for a couple years now. You can do a search thru the archives to find more info on this from previous posts. I did some heavy duty hogging this past weekend myself. Good seat time... except for the darn deer flies!

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Dale Olson

07-14-2005 06:30:18




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 Re: Brush hogging for dummies in reply to RogerL, 07-14-2005 00:05:01  
I saw your post because it's featured today. I use a Case VA and a drawbar 5' King Kutter to keep the weeds down. An overrider clutch is a must on this. I adjust the mower to sit about an inch higher in the back then the front. the theory is that way I am not mowing the stuff twice. Maybe on perfectly level ground, but the pocket gophers have been in the pasture for years so the mower is doing a lot of "up and down". When I started mowing this, I would ocassionally hit a mound dead on with enough force to kill the tractor. Doesn't happen much any more, I have topped off most of those old mounds the last few years! :-)

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Matt-in-KS

07-14-2005 05:35:17




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 Re: Brush hogging for dummies in reply to RogerL, 07-14-2005 00:05:01  
Forgot to mention that in very tall or thick grass I use 1st gear, and any other time 2nd. Don't run the tractor with the throttle "wide open", about 1/2 way works great for me.



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Matt-in-KS

07-14-2005 05:32:13




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 Re: Brush hogging for dummies in reply to RogerL, 07-14-2005 00:05:01  
I have a Howse 5ft hog behind my TO-20. I "hog" over 40+ acres and it works perfectly. This is how I set it up...

On level ground set the brush hog on a couple of 4x4's, on across the front and another across the back. Adjust the rear wheel so that it rests on the ground. Adjust the top link until the front of the hog just rises off the front 4x4.

That is all I do and when I engage the PTO I just set the lever to the right of the seat to its lowest position. I don't mess with the chains or anything else. If you don't have the "stabilizer bars"(they go from under your rear axle to the lower 3pt hookups), consider getting a set, as they will keep any implement you attach from swinging side to side.

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Fred Martin

07-14-2005 02:58:45




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 Re: Brush hogging for dummies in reply to RogerL, 07-14-2005 00:05:01  
I always adjusted mine so that the back was about an inch higher than the front and I hang the front of mine on chains so that it isn"t using the hydraulics all the time. I bored two holes in the front of the mower and attached the chains there, but you can make yours so that they fit on the 7/8" attachment pins on the mower and they"ll be just as well. Also, if your tractor doesn"t have a two stage clutch, you"ll need an override clutch on the PTO shaft before you hook the mower to the tractor or it can run you thru a fence or in a ditch...or worse. I once was mowing with a 9N in a 20 acre field in August when all that green stuff turns to seeds, chaff and wood and could make only one trip around and had to blow out the radiator cause you can"t get to the darn thing on a 9N to clean it off. I also use a chain on the top link instead of an adjustable top (solid) link. Some will tell you not to do this but I"ve had better luck that way. I used a solid top link on the finish mower the other day and crossed a small ditch and it bottomed out the mower deck and there was a $67 belt broken because of the solid top link..Doh! New temp guage at TSC is about $30 or less. Fred OH

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acmfmh

07-14-2005 11:41:52




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 Re: Brush hogging for dummies in reply to Fred Martin, 07-14-2005 02:58:45  
Fred,

I have seen the results from not using a solid toplink. Although it really makes me no difference what other people use. Here is the story. Chain toplink adjusted so the front was up some from the rear. Drove the tractor down in a rolling area of the land. Some how the front of the mower got caught as the tractor was starting up the next roll and mower was coming down. Flipped the mower rear of the mower up and over. Busted the pto shaft, gearbox, bent the 3pt frame of the mower and 3 point arms.

This was a rookie with no supervison. Actully more like a yuppie with more money than brains. He called me to help. After looking at the mess I told him to keep his day job.

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Rod in Smiths Falls, ON,

07-15-2005 15:51:33




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 Re: Brush hogging for dummies in reply to acmfmh, 07-14-2005 11:41:52  
Hey, that can happen. The top link is all that stopped my 5' Whistler from joining me on the tractor seat a couple of times when playing soccer with hardheads in the horse pasture.

No way would I use a chain instead of a top link in rough going. Too dangerous.



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Fred OH

07-14-2005 12:54:39




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 Re: Brush hogging for dummies in reply to acmfmh, 07-14-2005 11:41:52  
Maybe it"s a good idea to put your post in here...maybe some of the unsure/inexperienced fellows will follow that advise till they become more familiar with their equipment...best for the ones that mow flat land that has been farmed before and has been cleared of most obstacles. But if you do it for a living and back off of your hauling vehicle a little too fast and jam the solid top link forward when the rear wheel hits...it can and will tear up the hydraulic linkage inside the tractor. Or if you go down in a vee ditch straight on, that will jam it too...and if you drop a rear wheel in an unseen washout...same thing. So, I guess all we can do is to put all the scenarios here that we can think of and they can make their judgements from there. Just hope it saves someone some bucks or maybe their hide. Fred OH

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acmfmh

07-14-2005 16:42:31




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 Re: Brush hogging for dummies in reply to Fred OH, 07-14-2005 12:54:39  
Agreed!!!! Save the hide. Tractor can usually be fixed.



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Lester

07-14-2005 08:35:47




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 Re: Brush hogging for dummies in reply to Fred Martin, 07-14-2005 02:58:45  
I do a lot of commerical mowing with a Woods 6ft Dixie Cutter behind my Ferguson 40.Around 60 hrs a year.To do a nice clean job I go around completely in one direction and when i reach my starting point I turn around and go the opposite way, do this everytime. Seems to do a muc neater job and ive had a lot of comments om how nice a job I do. Stabilizer bars are a must.Your TO 35 has the same engine as my F40. I learned to drive a tractor in 1958 and it was a new TO 35 that my dad bought. Thats why I got this 40, closest thing i could find for the money.Hope thishelps you. Good luck Hawk

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Fred OH

07-14-2005 13:09:44




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 Re: Brush hogging for dummies in reply to Lester, 07-14-2005 08:35:47  
Lester...if you ever find a slick way of mowing and not having any "skips"...I"ll vote for you for president. Seems that with a rotary type mower one tractor rear will mash down some and a day or two later...there they stand. But if sickle bar mowing wasn"t so slow...you"re out away from the weeds or hay and don"t mash it down. I once had a flail mower lined up to buy...but the deal fell thru. Maybe someone will invent a laser to cut with but it"d probably catch things on fire. Our grandsons might be so lucky. Who can invent a "cool Laser"? Fred OH

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