Bolts holding fender skin to bracklets, how to rem

My suggestion would be to grind off the nut and the thread end - less likely to damage the fender skin then.

These days they are commonly used on wooden gates and gate furniture - so your local ag store may stock them.

Failing which, your local coach and cart maker may be able to help when they have finished making the latest high speed tumbril :)

HTH

Gerald J.

If they are rivets on both sides, then it could have been hot riveted, like a lattice work bridge. I think I'd leave them alone, but they could be drilled out and replaced by a carriage bolt with the nuts under the fenders behind the wheels. I don't have a MF-35 to be sure how they are attached. The square topped fenders on my MF-135 were spot welded but one fender has been rattling for years (helped by a tool box on top for a long time). I worked over the bracket but the fender still rattled and flopped, and I discovered a broken weld and put in a bolt and nut with lock washer. Just a plain hex bolt, its not a place I'll be rubbing to be annoyed by the lack of smoothness. It was a pain to drill the hole, and filing it square for a carriage bolt would have be a far greater pain. Now the fender doesn't flop.

Gerald J.

It could well be that you have the original rivets on your FENDERS, and as John said, that would be the original method the skins were fitted to the frame.

With our brilliant sunshine, and warm weather so famous throughout the world (not), I have never seen the original fit rivets, only carriage bolts. You don't really have to file the hole totally square - it only takes a few minutes just to give the bolt shank something to grip onto.

By the time the 135s were available rivets had been dropped in favour of spot welds (ugh!).

HTH