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Well well well... Looks like the buggers in W. Va. stole my idea.... But since I couldn't find a date on the print, I'll give them the benefit of the doubt! Actually mine was a bit different - I had a flat plate on the bottom of the support triangle, with a couple of 3/4 bolts welded into the flat to sit it on a three-point drawbar and bolt it on. And I had three holes on the boom - 1 at the location shown, and one 3 inches either way, to give more height at the inner one, and more lifting power at the outer one. That really didn't work, because the hydraulic power would lift the front end of the MF 35. The unit in the drawing does pivot at the top of the support triangle. On the commercial units, the standard top link should work. Adjusting shorter will give higher lift, longer will reduce the lifting height and increase the lift power, up to the limit of the tractor hydraulic power or front end weight. The sensitivity of control is determined by how well your system is functioning. My 35's are now reasonably smooth (after complete rebuilds - as purchased, most had bad valves and operated jerkily, and the loose master control spring added some interesting jumping effects at times); slow engine speed helps. I speak of the crane in past tense. Front end loaders have now replaced it, and it got a few bucks at an auction. The loaders provided more effective results. (Except that time when I put a tooth through a windshield....) An overhead chain hoist and engine levelling device has proven much more practical for engine removals. (Safer, better control all round.) A few 2x6 will give you an outdoor trestle frame if you do not have a building with overhead "hard points" to carry the weight of the hoist and engine.
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