|
gshadel
07-06-2004 10:29:54
|
|
Re: Clutch overhaul in reply to Rick Whitworth, 07-06-2004 06:12:32
|
|
|
Rebuilt my TO-20 clutch last Winter, I think that is about the same as a TO-30 clutch. Before you tear your tractor apart again, I recommend you check your clutch pedal travel. I don't recall the pedal spec's off the top of my head, the manual has the spec's and procedure. You just about need 3 hands to adjust it, but it can be done with two. You should have one "loose" clutch disk between the clutch housing and the flywheel. Once you torque down the clutch housing to the flywheel, the clutch disk should be held tight by the spring tension between the clutch disk and the clutch housing. The clutch disk has friction pads on each side and a splined hub in the middle. A new clutch disk costs about $45. The clutch housing does have a metal plate in it that rides against the clutch disk, but it is secured to the clutch housing with clips, springs, and stuff. I didn't need to mess with that, it looked like a pain in the butt to get it out of the housing. You need some sort of pilot shaft or bushing to keep the clutch disk lined-up in the middle of the flywheel while you tighten down the clutch housing. You probably did that or you would have had trouble lining up the clutch with the transmission shaft. If your clutch was different than any of this, that may be your problem.
I think there are 2 return springs on the throw-out arm inside the bell housing, might make the pedal return soft, but the clutch would still work.
If you don't have a manual I recommend getting one. There are torque spec's for the clutch housing to flywheel bolts, like ~12 ft pounds I think. The manual also says to measure the height of the housing off the flywheel, and a couple other things that you need to insure your clutch wears right.
Hope this helps, Good Luck.
|
|
|
