Feedback - Broken Axle Rough Running

What words of wisdom have I to offer after my endeavours?

Broken axle:
Loosen the bolts behind the brake plate and tap sharply with a mallet. This is enought to remove the friction on a sheared axle and indicate which one to remove.

Differential
Always take off the left axle looking from the back if the differential is suspect. The diff lifts in and out no problem.

Spare parts are no problem. Access them at>Link

Replacement>Link shaft second hand from the tractor breakers $A220.00.

Fitted seals (non standard) behind the bearing to prevent oil getting into the brake linings. Any seal supplier can order these. Measure the OD of the locking ring and the ID of the bearing housing. $A11 each.

Do not fill the transmission past the low level mark. This assists with keeping the oil away from the axle seals.

The brakes were average until I forgot to take the handbrake off one day. The brakes smoked for a while until I noticed. The brakes are now superb !!!

Rough running
Refurbish carburettor. refurbishment kit with new seals, washers, throttle disc and shaft $A52
The main culprit was air leaking by the manifold gasket and the throttle shaft.

New points, condensor, coil and plugs $A60

Timing re done with help from the forum identifying the hole below the starter motor which when lined up with the hole in the flywheel signifies TDC.

New Fuel line re routed away from the exhaust manifold and held in place with cable ties to prevent vapour lock in the pipe. $A12

The only thing left is that whilst it pulls like a trojan under load it does not like the light load and still misses slightly and occasionally backfires. My next move is to look at the carburettor tune.

Thanks again

Phil

Jim

The min/max adjustable jet worked loose because the threads had gone in the carb body. I applied vaseline to the fitting in which the jet sits and used araldite to glue it back into place. Worked a treat. The vaseline stops the araldite sticking to the fitting and only to the carb body. You can then unscrew it as required.

I didn't have the model number of the seals. All that was required was the ID and OD measurement. I did have the old seal but this was pretty mangled but gave them the depth of the seal. They just looked the measurements up in the catalogue and hey presto... new seals and brakes that worked.

Phil