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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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FE35 voltage

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Mark

08-11-2003 04:26:49




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Hi

I have enjoyed your forum prior to bying my first MF35, and learned at lot. I have now bought a FE35 SGM from 1962. The electrical wiring seem a little homemade though, therefore my question. Is the FE35 1962 born with 6 or 12Volts?
Secondary; the brakes are in poor condition. Is there any way to adjust the brakes?

regards
Mark (denmark)




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Batman

08-11-2003 06:03:27




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 Re: FE35 voltage in reply to Mark, 08-11-2003 04:26:49  
OK, you have the FE35 with the multi-plate clutch - this is a good thing - as far as whether yours was born with 6V or 12V, I think it was probably 12 - but I am no expert on FE35s or MF35s (would love to have one though).

Easy check is to look at the starter motor body - and see if it is stamped 6V or 12V.

The wiring may well have been 'repaired' by many people over the years, but new wiring looms are available if yours looks like a fire risk!!

Brake adjustment is done via the square adjuster on the back plate of each drum assembly - jack up each side in turn (chock front wheels first though!) and adjust until resistance is felt, then back off one click - do same on both sides and check (slowly at first not on road) to see if braking is even, then try at higher speeds, up to 10mph. Then try on tarmac if all seems well - you are aiming for even length skid marks with no 'pull' to one side under emergency braking type stops.

HTH

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Mark

08-11-2003 06:49:27




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 Re: Re: FE35 voltage in reply to Batman, 08-11-2003 06:03:27  
Thanks for you answer batman.

The starter is a 12v and it looks as old as the tractor. ;) So its probaly just standard maintenance during the years , that has left the wiring in this state.

your description/link to the brak adjustments was perfect! The adjusters are not rustet shut so Im giving it a go this evening. Im not sure I will leave skid marks on the asfalt though, theres about 8m skid mark left on each wheel. :)

thanks
MArk

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john(UK)

08-11-2003 11:03:14




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 Re: Re: Re: FE35 voltage in reply to Mark, 08-11-2003 06:49:27  
All FE35 were 12v all Ferguson tractors made in UK have been 12v since 1951. Has your FE35 got a square nut to adjust the brakes, some had a slot that you inserted a screwdriver through and moved the adjuster that way, same principle though as square nut for adjusting. To tighten the brakes that use the screwdriver adjustment, you move the screwdriver towards the axle to tighten the brakes.



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Batman

08-12-2003 07:33:12




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: FE35 voltage in reply to john(UK), 08-11-2003 11:03:14  
No, not all Fergusons have been 12V since 1951 - otherwise mine would be naturally 12V, which it isn't, as it was 'born' a 6V when first registered 6th April 1951, chassis 182266 (also 1951).

As with all models and engineering changes there is a crossover period during introduction in which both versions are seen before the 'later' type takes over completely.

:)

I had a feeling the FE35s were all 12V - just wasn't completely sure as I only lust after one - thanks.

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john(UK)

08-12-2003 10:24:54




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: FE35 voltage in reply to Batman, 08-12-2003 07:33:12  
OK OK I should maybe have said just for you that since serial number 200,001 IN 1951 all Coventry produced tractors have been 12v hope that puts the record straight.



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john(UK)

08-12-2003 10:32:39




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: FE35 voltage in reply to john(UK), 08-12-2003 10:24:54  
James, maybe a play on words, but I did say SINCE 1951. Just a thought!



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Batman

08-12-2003 07:30:53




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: FE35 voltage in reply to john(UK), 08-11-2003 11:03:14  
No, not all Fergusons have been 12V since 1951 - otherwise mine would be naturally 12V, which it isn't, as it was 'born' a 6V.

As with all models and engineering changes there is a crossover period during introduction in which both versions are seen before the 'later' type takes over completely.

:)



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MArk

08-11-2003 12:53:29




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: FE35 voltage in reply to john(UK), 08-11-2003 11:03:14  
I have the slot and star-nut type. I have now tried to tighten the brakes put the tractor still dosent brake, only now the pedal i stone hard. ;)
Im afraid that there is som kind of lubricant on the pads. But arent the brakes mechanical? (sorry, im a tractor-rookie)

The brake-pedal that goes into the transmission, how does that work? Is there any luck I could adjust that?

Mark the brakeless

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john(UK)

08-12-2003 10:49:14




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: FE35 voltage in reply to MArk, 08-11-2003 12:53:29  
Hi Mark, Sorry it isn't working out for you on the brake adjustment. There could be some kind of oil or grease on the shoes, only way is to check them physically. Take the drums off and look. The cross-shaft on the brake pedal just simply passes through the transmission housing, nothing inside there to adjust, only thing you can adjust is the length of the brake rods, just check that the same number of threads are showing behind the lock-nuts on the clevis adjuster on the rods. If the brake pedal is hard as you say and there is no contamination of the friction material on the shoes, it could well be that the friction material is "glazed" i.e very shiny and providing no friction at all hence no braking. You can either roughen them up so there is some friction or if they are worn, get them relined, I would suggest the latter is best option. Yes the brakes are mechanical, unless you have an Industrial model which could have hydraulic brakes with the master brake cylinder mounted on the side of the transmission at the round inspection hole, but even this would also have a set of mechanical brakes as well.

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MArk

08-12-2003 12:31:44




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: FE35 voltage in reply to john(UK), 08-12-2003 10:49:14  
Hi all

Ok I removed the brakedrum (surprisingly easy!) and discovered to well lined but also well oiled brakeshoes. :(
I am going to order some new lining. My next problem is though;the exist. lining is not rivetted on. The holes are there but not used. How to get the old lining of?.

Thanks for all your input, its of high value for a rookie like me.



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john(UK)

08-12-2003 15:32:28




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: FE35 voltage in reply to MArk, 08-12-2003 12:31:44  
They are bonded on to the shoes...use a chisel and maybe grinder, can be difficult to remove, but not impossible. What about the oil leak, have you found out whats causing it, no use relining till you cleared that up.



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Mark

08-13-2003 14:07:26




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: FE35 voltage in reply to john(UK), 08-12-2003 15:32:28  
Hi john

ok i will use chisel and hard work. :)

As far as I can see the oil i more of a greasy nature, it might come from then axel housing. Could it be a wrong kind of grease wich has "melted" and run out?



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john(UK)

08-14-2003 14:18:39




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: FE35 voltage in reply to Mark, 08-13-2003 14:07:26  
Yes it could be...or may be just over greasing, or maybe a mixture of the two, check carefully to see if you can determine where it has come from and to save yourself more work and expense again later.



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Ross M

08-11-2003 23:40:27




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: FE35 voltage in reply to MArk, 08-11-2003 12:53:29  
You might have the same problem as me!!! Leaking halfshafts which means oil is getting on to the shoes and stopping the brakes from functioning properly. Its only on one side on mine. You will have to either reline the brakes or buy new shoes and clean the drum out. Its not worth trying to clean the brakes after all they do stop you from having a serious accident.



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