Yesterday's Tractors - Project Journal

17:30 01/13/18 No subject given

I finally have the unit running, but I have discovered a few issues. Any help and direction will be welcome guys n gals.
1st. I have rebuilt the zenith carb and it idles and throttles up ok. I have set the main and idle jet to where it is responsive and seems to run with the correct mixture. I had noticed low oil pressure approx. 20psi. I checked the oil dipstick and it is overfull and very runny. smells like fuel also. I attribute this to the previous owner lack of maintanence and his common fix to it running poorly to tap on the carb to more fuel to go into the bowl. Prior to cleaning the carb I had an intermittent fuel flow problem that would go from nothing to fuel pouring out of the body. (Bad needle and seat also improper float level adj)
If it was running too rich, It was probably dumping fuel into the cylinders and washing the sleeves and fuel going past the rings into the crankcase. Correct?
I am going to change the oil and see if this improves the oil pressure.
the other issue that I noticed is that it doesn't want to get out of its own way. It has a 4sp tranny with a torque converter drive. as soon as I go from the TC to direct drive it wants to die and seems very under powered. I can push in the clutch and the engine rpm will come back to normal, but this doesn't seem right. It also had a loader on it and when I raise the bucket It also wants to die.
I haven't checked the plugs or dist cap n rotor for any clues. Could it be only running on 3 cylinders yet seems to idle ok?
It is also not charging. I have some serious electrical issues inside the cab, which I can clean up. None of the instrument cluster gauges are hooked up nor the ignition. It is all cobbled and screwy looking. Could there be a related problem electrical that I should look for? Am I not getting the correct power to the engine electrical for it to run properly. I know this is a lot to answer, but I am only looking for a starting point.
My direction is oil pressure, compression, plugs, wires, cap rotor, alternator, and then cab stuff.
Direction on what to keep an eye out for would be appreciated.
I have also started a project journal on this forum in my hopes to restore this unit to good working shape.
Thanks all!

*Comments*
kevinthefixer 17:54 01/14/18	Without seeing the unit itself (not likely) all I can do is take a few WAGs. 20 psi is not horrible oil pressure, but if you have contaminated fuel by all means change it. It's done pretty much the same as your car, except it has a lot more grease zerks. Poor running could be any number of things, and probably more than one on a unit this age. Check all the easy stuff first, I think I'd start with the air cleaner 'cuz it's an easy check: disconnect the inlet hose from the carb and see if it runs better. If it's an oil bath clean it anyway. Pull the plugs, what do they look like? Post a pic, a closeup of one. That's if they all look about the same, if one is markedly different let's see a portrait of that one too. While you have the plugs out, run a compression test. A proper compression test is done with the battery fully charged, preferably on a charger, throttle and choke both wide open, and of course no restricted air cleaner. Should be over 100psi, and all within about 15 of each other. If they vary much, adjust your valves and recheck. Do a visual on points, cap, rotor, etc., and an ohmmeter check on (closed) points and plug wires, more than 2-3 ohms means fail. BTW, what do you mean you refurbished the battery? What do you have for a charging system, a small alternator? If so pull it and take it to a parts store, they'll check it free hoping to sell you one. If you don't have a manual for the machine, get one, at least a parts manual but having all three is best (Operator's, Service, Parts). You'll definitely need a wiring diagram. Proper procedures for setting points, timing, carb are in order. What does the fluid in the torque tube look like? My Case-O-Matic is older than yours but should be basically the same, should have ATF type A (Dexron) or 10 weight oil in it. On mine the hydraulics use the same fluid, and my manual says to run it a bit overfull if it has accessories like a loader. You shouldn't use direct drive unless you're roading it, that's what the converter is there for, to keep from lugging the motor down too much. Checking all that should keep you busy for a while, but I'll try to check back here often to see if I can add anything more that's useful! And good luck.
YTSupport 19:22 01/16/18	This may be off the wall, since I don't know Cases well (not gas ones), but if it's a governed engine, be sure your governor linkage is correctly hooked up and operating smoothly. That could impact running under load.
homestead1250 19:10 01/17/18	It is a governed engine. I was looking at the throttle linkages and it looks like someone has cobbled it together. I noticed that the foot throttle is extremely hard to push and also the hand throttle doesnt work. there is also a large spring that seems to be installled after the fack. there is also a spring acting as a return spring for the carb linkage that it doesnt show in the case parts diagram. I do not have a manual of any sort, just pictures from the online case parts site. I will be looking into the correct placement of all the springs and othe assy stuff. I was thinking that could be a problem. thanks for your insight. I love this forum. It is so helpful!
kevinthefixer 14:03 01/28/18	I have to recommend that you invest in a manual, at least the parts manual as its exploded diagrams are incredibly useful. I got lucky that I got all 3 manuals with my tractor and they've been invaluable. I'm fixing to change my hydraulic oil and I'd never get it right without the service manual, though.

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