How would you store/protect

old · Feb 10, 2011

I will be picking up the engine block and pistons for my sons truck in a next few days. Problem is I am having to do this one part at a time so now that it is bored and has new cam bearings and been dipped and cleaned how do I store it till it is time to install the crank and pistons?? I'm thinking I can put a coat of grease in the bores and on the bearings and then maybe put trash bags around it. It will be next month before I can do the crank shaft so it will sit for a month or more.
Thanks

Anonymous-0 · Feb 10, 2011

Use your grease and maybe wrap a bl;anket around it before you cover it with plastic???

Nebraska Cowman · Feb 10, 2011

Drag it in the house where it's warm. That's what I'd do

Anonymous-0 · Feb 10, 2011

Yea....Set in frt of your chair and use it as a rest for shooting possums...... :shock:

Mark-Mi · Feb 10, 2011

Hose it down with WD-40 for that short of time.
Store indoors out of weather. Mark

old · Feb 10, 2011

You know I was thinking about that but my wife already complains about the tractor parts I have in here but ya maybe she would not notice it. I have an oil pan from a 9N here maybe I could take the oil pan out to the shop and set the 292 Chev engine block in its place and maybe she would not know I had swapped the 2 of them LOL

Adirondack case guy · Feb 10, 2011

Hay old, bring it in the house and set it on end beside your favorite chair, then put a cookie tin on top of it, and ask your wife for an old table cloth to drape over it. Problem solved.

atlarge54 · Feb 10, 2011

Shooting it with wd40 or some kind of oil is a good idea. If it was me and it would be in an unheated building for a month I'd put a trouble light in it and cover it with a blanket so it's not the coldest thing in the room. Condensation is your enemy.

Detmurds · Feb 10, 2011

Plastic brings moisture, and rust loves moisture!

NCWayne · Feb 10, 2011

ZEP Products makes a spray called Ironclad that will work for you and then some. I put it on a freshly sandblasted piece that set outside for several years without rusting so I know it'll work for what your wanting. I keep a few cans around to keep things like exposed cylinder rods, etc coated when I know the equipment isn't going to be operated for a while.
Ironclad

Errin OH · Feb 10, 2011

I would give it a "light" spray with wd-40 as sugested. Wipe down just as if seasoning a cast iron skillet. Clean the head, timing, bell housing, and oil pan surfaces with cleaner to remove oil residue and seal wth a good tape (blue or green painters tape). Once sealed up I would cover with plastic and put somewhere out of the way. Should keep a couple months as long as it not in a wet enviorment.

Ultradog MN · Feb 10, 2011

Use it as a coffee table.

Vern · Feb 10, 2011

I would stay away from the WD-40. It is a solvent, not a preservative or lubricant.
This is a common mis-belief. It only works as a lubricant if there is old grease or oil that it can rejuvenate.

Since your block is clean I would use something like LPS3. It should be available at auto parts stores. This product is specifically designed to prevent rust & protects for up to 2 years. I hope your project doesn"t last that long but if it does your parts will be protected.
Good luck;
Vern

bc · Feb 10, 2011

Spray it down as said. The chinese use cosmolene.

The engine rebuilder around here just wraps them in clear plastic. With clear plastic you can see what is going on.

You can use a dessicant inside whatever you wrap it in. Basically silica gel. Wally world and craft shops sell it as flower drying crystals. Kitty litter and oil dry basically works like a dessicant.

guido · Feb 10, 2011

Hello old,
I would use engine oil, spray it to cover the entire engine in and out. Wrap the engine as air tight as you can, for extra insurance.
Pistons and rod you can put them in a bucket-container and fill the them with oil, so that covers all the parts. The oil you can use for engine building, lawnmower, and any other air coold engine you have.
Guido.

TGIN · Feb 10, 2011

I have got a few short blocks in my time and they were always smeared with grease and wraped in plastic then put in a crate . I would try to put it somewhere the temp. would nt swing much and cause alot of condensation .

Mike M · Feb 10, 2011

Come on now ! Your the ATF king. Soak it down in ATF !

I do think some of the sprays made like LPS would do a good job. This way you can it it in the oil galleys too. I have brushed down my used parts with gear lube and it works pretty good too.

WD-40 is NO GOOD for rust preventing. I learned this the hard way years ago.

trucker 40 · Feb 10, 2011

Oil and then put plastic over it,just dont close the plastic up completely so it dries out if it condenses water.I have put an engine on the engine stand,oiled it up and put a trash bag over it for a month or 2 before.When you take the plastic off to build it,clean it first in case there is any dust trapped by the oil.
Another way Ive done is put it on the stand, set the heads on,put a couple of bolts in to hold the heads on,put the pan on with a couple of bolts and the valve covers with a couple of bolts,intake with a couple of bolts.Then if I have some paint I might paint it.If you paint it you might get some dripped onto somewhere you dont want it,but a wire brush on a grinder will knock it right off,or you could put some masking tape around the seams I guess,and where the carburetor bolts on,tape the up and anything else you dont want paint on.Then slide a plastic bag over it after the paint dries,or anything to keep the dirt off of it and out of it.A clean rubber floor mat if its big enough works even better than a plastic bag because wind wont blow it of as easy.

GordoSD · Feb 10, 2011

I don't know how you learned WD-40 was not a good rust preventative. In somne exhaustive tests, wd-40 ranked second behind heavy auto grease as a rust preventative. That really is about all is IS good for.

36 Coupe · Feb 10, 2011

WD 40 will leave a gummy residue behind.Spray some on a machined surface.

Jerry/MT · Feb 10, 2011

I"d spray it with engine oil and then cover it with an old cotton bed sheet.(This will need some cooperation from the wife.) You just want to keep the dust off it but you don"t want any condensation forming on it. The cotton will allow it to "breathe."

Anonymous-0 · Feb 10, 2011

You can buy stuff called engine fogger for that. Dave

Eric in IL · Feb 10, 2011

Go find a free chest type freezer that still has a reasonably good door gasket. Rig up a light bulb to burn continuously inside. A 60 watt might be enough. Put the block in the freezer. Check the light bulb daily when you're feeding the chickens to see if it has burned out.

old · Feb 10, 2011

Ah but this is an old school engine a 292 6 Chev. When done it will be in a 1951 Chev pick up and the way it os going this one will have to have wheelie bars on back since this it a blue print engine

george md · Feb 11, 2011

old,

Those of us that are in the automotive

machine shop biz use a product called

rust lick ,it is a creeping self healing

product that will keep part from rusting

for years .The shop doing your work most

likely has the rust lick ,spray on with a

spritz bottle , double bag it and tie it,

it will be good. If you can't find the rust

lick , holler ,I'll send you some,I buy it

by the gallon.

george

GordoSD · Feb 11, 2011

DUH? That gummy residue is what is protecting the iron. If you want non gummy spray it down with acetone, for watever good that would do.

Mike M · Feb 11, 2011

Well way back in 1985 when I was doing a complete empty case up restoration on my JD720 D I had the case all cleaned up and even had some assembled. I sprayed EVERYTHING down with a coat of WD-40. Well next day I went to do more work and lifted off the dust preventer covering and everything had flash rusted ! Had to scrub it to clean it all off again.
I then started using kerosene or wiped with light oil had had WAY better results.

36 Coupe · Feb 11, 2011

Floor wax will do the same job with out the gumDont DUH me jerk I use my table saw often.A revolver sprayed with wd 40 will lock up tight.

Detmurds · Feb 11, 2011

Just don't let it get cold and sweat. Plastic sucks, firewood gets worse under it, might as well leave it out in the rain!

MRGJNV · Feb 12, 2011

I heat our shop during the day on weekends with a propane torpedo heater. Our SM and H are in there also. Any advice on what should be done to them before attempting to start them in the early summer? They haven't been ran since last fall.

old · Feb 12, 2011

Pour a little ATF in each cylinder and also a little down the exhaust. By pouring some down the exhaust that will get it to the open exhaust valve which there always is and that is the one that likes to stick open after sitting for a few months

How would you store/protect

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Member

Well-known Member

Similar threads